The traveling manatees by Nancy French: Santa Cruz

Diego

Returning to Santa Cruz, we were visiting the inhabited portion of the island, and traveling to the Charles Darwin Research Station. Scientists work at the facility on research and conservation projects for the Galapagos ecosystems. The Charles Darwin Foundation, located at the site, operates an active turtle and land iguana breeding program. Lonesome George, the world's most famous Galapagos tortoise died in 2012, the lone survivor of his species. Diego, the world's second most popular tortoise resides at the Station. Still going strong at 135 years old, it is estimated that he has sired over 1700 young. He happily dedicated himself to the survival of his species, the Espanola tortoise, but was put into retirement 4 years ago.

Departing the Station, we headed up into the highlands to Rancho Primicia. At over 150 hectares, this private property borders National Park lands, and wild Galapagos tortoises find their way to the ranch to lounge in mud pools and hang out in the shade. Dozens of the huge reptiles were spotted during our visit. For those of our group so inclined, empty tortoise shells could be donned, we declined that opportunity. Numerous lava tunnels exist on the island, and we had a chance to walk in one on this same property. Lighting in the 1000 foot tunnel was installed by the owner. The furthest depths require a flashlight, and hands and knees exploring. They are formed when cooler outer parts of the lava flow harden into thick rock walls, providing insulation to keep a flow going inside. Eventually, the flow subsides leaving long empty tunnels. No volcanic activity has occurred on Santa Cruz in thousands of years, so no worries about anything happening during our visit.

Returning to town, we did some souvenir shopping and hanging out along the waterfront before returning to the Letty for our last evening in the Galapagos. The following day, we visited the Environmental Interpretation Center in San Cristobal that provides info on the history, biology, and geology of the islands. We also saw dozens of sea lions before meeting our guides for the bus trip to the airport for a flight to Guayaquil and then on to Peru.

Santa Cruz waterfront

At the fish dock along the waterfront in Santa Cruz

Opening of the lava tunnel

Heron at Rancho

Doing their part to perpetuate the species

As the boat refueled on Santa Cruz, we slept in a bit. This island is the most populace in the Galapagos, at around 24,000, but we were not visiting the developed area today. Upon completion of the fueling, we ate breakfast as the Letty moved to the opposite side of the island to Bachas Beach. Departing the ship by panga, we arrived at a white, sandy beach and followed a marked trail that overlooked a lagoon with a few flamingos. Lava rock, marine iguanas, and remnants of a floating dock used by the Americans during WWII were also seen on the walk as we returned to the beach area for snorkeling. Marine iguanas, Galapagos green sea turtles, sharks, and rays joined us on our swim.

Returning to the boat, we lunched and had a short siesta as the boat moved to another portion of

the island, off Dragon Hill. Here we did a "deep-water" snorkel with more turtles, dozens of black starfish with orange dots and a variety of fish. The swim was followed by a hike where we spotted sizable land iguanas. Previously decimated by feral dogs, and their food supply destroyed by other domestic animals introduced by the people coming to live on the island, the iguanas were reintroduced and are now thriving due to the extraordinary efforts of the Park Service. Now moving on to Fernandina.