Cochin (Kochi), India

Chinese fishing nets

Wanting to extend our Indian experience, we flew to the southwestern coast to Cochin for a 2-day layover before flying on to Egypt.  Offering the world's first exclusively solar airport, the modern facility was impressive.  Having secured accommodations near the airport, the following morning it was a 1.5-hour ride to the Fort Kochi area.  Surprisingly, there is no Fort Kochi, even though that is the name of the community.

Having arranged for the driver and a guide prior to the trip, Peter, our guide for the day, was waiting near the waterfront on our arrival.  Chinese fishing nets are a visitor highlight and our first stop of the day.  As we walked along the waterfront we watched the nets in action and even had the opportunity to try it ourselves.  Even though trips to the area are primarily fueled by tourists, the nets are still used for pulling in fish. The seafood is sold in adjacent stalls and can be cooked by yet another street entrepreneur as you watch the nets in action.

Santa Cruz Basilica

Veering away from the waterfront we visited St. Francis Church, the first European church built in India.  Built originally of wood in 1503, it was later reconstructed in stone and completed in 1516.  Vasco da Gama, the Portuguese explorer who first came to India in 1498, was originally buried in the church in 1524.  Next, we spent some time at the nearby Santa Cruz Basilica first constructed in 1505.  The cathedral was destroyed by the British in 1795 but was rebuilt and consecrated in 1902.  Continuing in the religious mode, we were driven to a section of Cochin known as Jew Town.  The road leading to the Paradesi Synagogue is filled with shops selling clothing, jewelry, and sundry souvenirs with salesmen pitching their products at each doorway.  Passing through the gauntlet is the only way to reach the only functioning synagogue in Kochi. which was built in 1567.  Several Belgian glass chandeliers decorate the interior, along with hundreds of hand-painted blue and white Chinese porcelain tiles that cover the floor.  

After a traditional Kerala vegetarian lunch, we made an unusual stop at a laundry cooperative.  Started in 1720 by the Dutch military, the ancestors of the families now working at the Dhobi Khana were originally brought here to clean the uniforms of the soldiers.  Laundry now comes from hotels, businesses, and individuals.  Each worker functions as an independent contractor and has their own sink and work area for ironing the clothes.  Clothes are hung to dry in the sun on coconut fiber rope which holds the fabric securely in place.  Cost for a dress shirt to be washed, starched, and ironed would be 20-25 rupees or about 30-35 cents.  One woman we spoke with, through Peter, uses coconut husk coals for her iron rather than electricity in order to keep her costs down since the husks are free.  Trying out the old-fashioned iron, I was surprised that it probably weighed 7-8 pounds, but worked just as efficiently as our modern irons, and needed to be moved quickly to prevent scorching the fabric.   

Mural at the Mattancherry Palace

Mattancherry Palace was our final stop of the day.  It was gifted and built for the King of Cochin by the Portuguese in 1555.   Numerous murals (an estimated 1000 square feet) completed in tempura style in warm colors depict Indian epics.  A museum on site shows off royal costumes, turbans, and weaponry from the days of the rajas.

Departing early the next morning, we traveled to Dubai and then to Cairo to start our Egyptian adventure.

Paradesi Synagogue interior (photo by Wikipedia)
No photography allowed inside.

Pulling in the fishing nets

Helping pull in the catch

Fishing boats along the shore

St. Francis church 

Seafood for sale along the waterfront

Traditional Kerala lunch 

Hanging laundry to dry on coconut fiber rope

Scrubbing the laundry

Jaipur, India

Arriving late afternoon in Jaipur, Dinesh delivered Alan to a nearby facility for an Ayurveda massage.  Based on a form of alternative medicine that was developed in India nearly 3,000 years ago, the massage incorporates the use of essential oils.   Focusing on specific energy points, the relaxing and energizing massage was a perfect end to his day.

Hotel Traditional Heritage Haveli, our accommodations for the next 2 evenings, was a nicely appointed hotel which had been a spacious home built in the 1940s by a local businessman.  In the dining room, I was spoiled by a chef and staff who went out of their way preparing special breads using chickpea, lentil or rice flours for each of the meals we enjoyed onsite.  Their Dal Makhani (creamy black lentils) were so tasty I ordered the dish both evenings, and hope to recreate the recipe at home.

Wind Palace

Dinesh arrived with our new guide, Kamish, the following morning and headed to what is referred to as the Wind Palace.  With 953 latticed windows, the ladies of the royal court were able to watch the activity on the street below without being observed.  The rosy color of the structure comes from the natural red and pink sandstone found in the area, and which gives the city its nickname "The Pink City".

Kamish then led us to a lovely old temple before heading to the Amer Fort.  Construction on the fort

At Amer Fort

was started in 1592 by Maharaja Man Singh, the commander of the Rajput Army.  The entire area is ringed by high walls that look like the Great Wall of China,  It is the 3rd longest wall in the world after the China and Kumbhalgarh Walls.  Wide walkways located at the top of the wall allowed soldiers to move around the wall and monitor activity inside and outside.  The inside of the fort consists of courtyards, palaces, halls, and gardens.  Elaborate hidden tunnels allowed royalty to hide under or exit the fort if needed.  The Sheesh Mahal is a chamber decorated with thousands of mirrors on the walls and ceiling.  Kamish was able to take a photo of Alan and me standing together even though we were in totally different areas.  One of the courtyards was built so that the Maharaja could visit the wife or concubine of his choice without the other women knowing who he had chosen.

Jal Mahal

Departing the fort, we moved on briefly to the Jal Mahal (water palace) built in the Man Sagar Lake.  Though the structure is 5 stories high and built into the lake bed, the only portion of the palace which can be seen is the top story.  The Maharaja Madho Singh had the palace built in 1750 as a lodge for himself and for parties.  Visits to the palace are not allowed, so it can only be viewed from the shoreline.

Next, we moved on to the expansive City Palace which includes a museum of weaponry and royal costumes.  Started in the early 1700s, there are several courtyards, buildings, pavilions, gardens, and temples within the walls of the palace.   The Jantar Mantar located next to the palace measures time to within seconds with a surprisingly accurate sundial.

Before departing Jaipur, we visited the Elephant Sanctuary.  Dozens of elephants are housed at the facility with the animal's caretakers and their families living onsite as well.  Taking the opportunity to ride one of the large animals, we took a brief spin around the grounds.  The caretakers' young son took on the role of photographer.

En route to Delhi, we saw a few bands of gypsies traveling along the highway.  We hadn't realized that Roma gypsies are part of the low caste "untouchables" who had originated in India and migrated to Britain and Europe around 1400 years ago.

Over the next 2 days, we spent a lot of time in planes or hanging out in airports as we traveled from Delhi to Mumbai to Cochin and finally to Male, Republic of the Maldives.

This photo was taken with us in two different areas, it was shot through a series of mirrors

Kamish and Alan at the Fort

Street vendor near the Water Palace 

One of the gardens at the Fort

Temple in Old Jaipur

Details in Old Temple

Details at the Amer Palace entrance

In the mirror room

Gypsies traveling along the highway with their dromedary camels

Peacock door at the City Palace

The outer door at the entrance to the City Palace designed to stop intruders

One of the many gorgeous doors at the City Palace

Another band of gypsies

Deliveryman

Agra, India

The great gate at the north entrance of the Taj 

Departing Delhi, we headed southeasterly to Agra, the former capital of the Mughal Empire and home to one of the seven wonders of the world, the Taj Mahal.  The white marble mausoleum was built by Emperor Shah Jahan in remembrance of his beloved wife, Mumtaz Mahal, who died while giving birth to their 14th child.  Between 7 to 8 million tourists visit the monument each year.  Located along the banks of the Yamuna River, and surrounded by gardens, the complex covers over 40 acres.  With relief work in marble and the inlay of hundreds of thousands of semiprecious stones, the structure is considered the finest example of Indo-Islamic architecture and craftsmanship.  It took over 20 years and 20,000 workers to complete the project.  On Fridays, the monument is closed to the public and open only for prayer, we were also told that this is the day that semi-precious stones that have been stolen from the walls are replaced.  In spite of numerous guards located throughout the complex, and barriers which help distance visitors from the walls, a number of the semi-precious stones are pilfered each year.  In 1996, the Indian government created an air pollution protection zone around the Taj to help prevent degradation of the structure and numerous other monuments in the area.

The moat at the entrance to the Fort

Located a short distance away, the sandstone Agra Red Fort is also located along the river.  This was constructed as a walled city covering 94 acres which housed the early emperors of the Mughal Dynasty.  The former city housed mosques, palaces, and halls all surrounded by walls 65 feet high.  The fort was also surrounded by a moat, which is said to have been filled with both water and crocodiles, providing an additional layer of protection for the royal families.  Shah Jahan was deposed and held prisoner by his 3rd son in one of the towers of the fort until his death.  He was said to have had a view of the Taj Mahal from his cell.

Our guide, Sumit, then arranged a stop at the workshop where the semi-precious stone replacements for the Taj are created.  The exacting work is tedious and slow, but beautiful.  Of course, they also create an assortment of plates, tables, etc. with the stones inlaid in white marble available for purchase.

It is estimated that over 5 million stray cows roam the countryside in India.  It was not uncommon to

see them in the streets of Delhi and they were more prevalent in the villages or small cities.  With the Hindu religion accounting for 80% of India's 1.2 billion population, the worship of the cattle creates a contentious issue.  With only about 3000 cowsheds in the country, intended for the care and housing of old and infirmed cattle, there are obviously millions wandering the country digging through farmers' fields destroying their crops or garbage piles for food.  Even though Hinduism is considered a peaceful, harmonious religion that promotes the idea of non-violence, over the past 6 years 45 people responsible for the processing of beef, transport of cattle or related activities have been killed by far-right factions trying to protect their sacred cows.

Politicians running for the next election have promised to build more cow sheds, unwilling/unable to address the problem in any other manner. 

Departing Agra the following day, we stopped at the 9th-century Stepwell Chand Baori.  The elaborately constructed 3500 narrow steps are arranged symmetrically descending about 64 feet.  Built in the dry zone of Rajasthan, it provided water throughout the year.

Upon entering the Rajasthan state, we started seeing a number of unique vehicles, known as jugaads.  The low-cost vehicles constructed from parts of multiple engines and body parts are not legally considered roadworthy, but within small villages, they are not only allowed but become a primary source of transportation, not only for the owners but as a cheap collectivos (or shared taxi).

A jugaad taxi spotted near Bhula Raoji

A traditional Rajasthani lunch was next on our agenda.  At the DhularGarh Heritage Hotel in the little village of Dhula Raoji, we were greeted by the general manager who led us to a dining room where we were the only customers.  A few minutes later large platters of a variety of vegetarian dishes accompanied by bowls of rice were served.  Though we didn't have the names for any of the foods we were eating, we thoroughly enjoyed the meal.  Following the lunch, the manager provided a tour of the hotel which had previously been a palace.  Stately peacocks strutted around the property.  In fact, the whole village used to be part of the palace grounds and large walls surround the area.  Our host had grown up on the property, his father had been a teacher to the prince. When royalty was abolished in 1950, the royal families still owned the properties they had held before, they just lost any political power.  After our hotel tour, we climbed aboard a camel pulled cart and took a brief ride through the village and out to a surrounding desert area.  Children chased after the cart waving and smiling as they ran behind.  As during our visit to the Far East, our white skin was an anomaly and many of the children have never seen Caucasians.  Our driver, Dinesh, recounted a story from his youth when he met his first white person, a visitor who came to the school he attended and passed out pencils.  The previous day we had given some pens to a young girl making cow patties alongside the road, he shared that it was something she would probably always remember.

Next, we headed onward to Jaipur.  

Woman making cow patties which are used for heating and cooking.

The milkman cometh

Inside one of the palaces in the Red Fort

At the Red Fort

At the Red Fort

At the entrance of the Heritage Hotel

Our camel and his owner for the cart ride through Dhula Raoji

Interior wall at the Taj