On the Road Again

At High Falls State Park Campground

On the road again

Goin' places that I've never been
Seein' things that I may never see again
And I can't wait to get on the road again

From On The Road Again by Willie Nelson

 Over a decade ago, following retirement, we headed out on the road in our RV to explore this beautiful country.  Though, we had both had the opportunity to travel extensively across the country in our younger years, the post-retirement travels would be different, relaxed, flexible, with no time restraint from employment or business demands.  The Willie Nelson song became a sort of anthem for us and we always cranked up the volume and played this song as we departed.

                                                                     

With our travels coming to a screeching halt last year with Covid-19, we had filled our time with sundry projects.  But, the desire to be moving around and exploring had never left either of us.  With State and National Parks and most public (and private) campgrounds open again by summer, we waited but finally made the move in November to purchase a travel trailer.  With reservations made online, and minimal, if any, interaction with campground hosts or other campers, it seemed like a safer way to travel in these still uncertain times.  Yes, we still wore masks and socially distanced as appropriate.  But living in our traveling bubble, the need to be concerned was less imperative.  

Traveling for a visit with our daughter, Nicole, and family (who exist in their own covid bubble), we moved

Sugar mill ruins

slowly up the Florida coast.  Stopping first near Flagler Beach, we discovered the Bulow State Park and Plantation Ruins.  Though I had been raised initially in nearby Daytona Beach, my parents had wisely determined that my siblings and I would have little interest in the ruins of this antebellum sugar plantation.  In fact, I had no prior knowledge of its existence.  The 9000-acre plantation also grew cotton, rice, and indigo with the labor of as many as 300 slaves.  In 1836, the buildings on the property were burned out during the Second Seminole War.  Today, nothing is really left of the home that graced the grounds but a short hike away we found the ruins of the once busy sugar mill where the sugarcane was turned into sugar, molasses, and rum.  Fairchild Oaks, magnolias, and cabbage palms line the roadways and trails in the park and wild turkeys proceeded us along the trail.  

Overlooking the Skidaway Narrows

Moving north to Georgia, we made a reservation at Skidaway Island State Park.  Part of Georgia's Intracoastal waterway, our generous campsite was surrounded by Spanish moss-draped live oak trees where we enjoyed the first campfire of the trip.  Trails winding through maritime forest and over salt marshes provide multiple looped walks.  The birds and wildlife of the park were hidden during our explorations.

High Falls State Park, south of Atlanta, was our next stop.  Though when reservations were made, the park was shown to be full, on our arrival, only a handful of other campers were on site.  It was almost our own private campground.  Once the sun began to warm things up the following morning, we headed out to explore the trails.  Along the Historic Trail, the Power Plant built circa 1890 and closed in 1960 is still in relatively good condition, and hovers over the Towaliga River.  Across the road, which divides the park, we found the trail leading down to the parks' namesake, the High Falls, the 135-foot cascading falls.  

Christmas Eve and the following 2 days were spent with our daughter, son-in-law, and granddaughters.  With snow flurries on Christmas Eve and temperatures below freezing for most of our stay, we worried somewhat obsessively about burst water lines and cracked tanks.  But, with Alan's actions to minimize the likelihood and some luck, we departed with no damage. 

Folly Beach

Rather than driving south, we headed east to Charleston, SC.  Having visited James Island County Park, outside the city, many years ago, we were aware of the annual Holiday Festival of Lights.  Previously missing out on the event by a few weeks, we wanted to take advantage of our proximity and booked two nights.  During our visit, Charleston was a mandatory mask city and on our stroll around town, roughly 90% of the visitors/residents were complying.  Sadly, countless storefronts were closed down, many permanently.  A handful of cafes and restaurants posted, "No mask, no service" signs.  Wandering to the Historic Charleston Market, we found a lineup for entry. Persons entering were counted with persons exiting counted on the other end to limit the capacity.  Deciding not to enter the still crowded market, we departed the city and moved on to Folly Beach.  The wide, white-sand and mostly deserted beaches offered a chance to enjoy the perfect weather. 

Taking advantage of the Holiday Festival, we drove through the display both evenings of our stay.  Christmas music could be played in conjunction with the drive from a local AM station, adding to the festive mood.  The 643-acre park also offers a 3.5-mile paved loop biking/walking trail which was scantly used in spite of the packed campground.

Located at the southern tip of Georgia, Crooked River State Park was our final stop before heading home.  Located amongst palmettos and Spanish-moss draped oaks, the campground was full but the large site provided privacy.  The quiet roads furnished the opportunity to explore the park on our bikes.  Four short hiking trails were available but persistent gnats dissuaded us from utilizing them.  Kayak trails are also offered but we hadn't brought our kayaks, and there are recommendations for appropriate times to paddle due to the strong semidiurnal tides.  Something to save for another trip.

All in all, it was a delightful trip, and I'm sure we'll be back 'on the road again' soon.    

Old Power Plant at High Falls SP

Shrimp boats near Folly Beach

Charleston Market

Great White Heron at James Island

Walking along the salt marshes at Skidaway Island

Christmas flamingos

Overlook of the saltwater flats of James Island near the trail 

 

Hilton Head Island and Charleston area S.C.

Hilton Head Island Beach

On the road again.  We spent a couple of weeks at home to catch up on mail, and touch base with friends and family, following the European getaway and the short trip to Costa Rica.  This time we are back in the RV, headed along the southeastern coast.  Even though we have been up and down the eastern seaboard countless times through the years, we have never taken time to stop at Hilton Head Island.  Known for its championship golf courses, tennis (300 courts on this tiny island!), 50-miles of bike and walking trails and a 12-mile beach, it seemed that a visit here was overdue.

Bluffton Oyster Company

With the hard-packed sand on the beach, we were able to bike a good portion of the waterfront and then moved over to the trails.  I'm sure we did nowhere near the full 50-miles, but most of the areas were cloaked in shade from the countless oak trees along our route, and on this post-Labor Day ride, the trail was not crowded.  With rain in the forecast, we only spent one night but managed to stock up on seafood for the next few evenings.  Locating the Bluffton Oyster Company along the waterfront, we scored fresh flounder, shrimp, oysters, mussels and some of the best crab meat we have had in a long time. (check out our dinner here-  Crab Meat Salad )

Pier at James Island County Park near Charleston

Rain followed us up the coast to Charleston, but we had a few hours of sunshine the morning after our arrival.  Camping in the James Island County Park, we took advantage of their extensive bike trail to explore the park.  At 643- acres, this large park offers a wonderful diversity of activities for visitors, including a large dog park for the furry guests.  We bypassed on the climbing wall and the splash park, but the campground also offers kayaking, crabbing, and fishing opportunities.  Located just a few miles from the center of Charleston, this was a perfect stopping point.

While exploring the general Charleston area, we discovered Kiawah Island, and 'strand feeding' Atlantic Bottlenose dolphins.  These dolphins feed along the Kiawah River, creeks and inlets, in a manner unique to coastal regions in South Carolina and Georgia.  A group of dolphins herd a school of fish or shrimp to the water's edge and toss them up onto the shore.  The dolphins then launch their bodies onto the shore to feed.  I missed getting a picture of this but the video here shows how they do it.

Unfortunately, the weather has not been cooperating.  Rain, rain and more rain continue to put a damper on our attempts at outdoor activities.  We're going to continue heading north.  Planning on a few weeks in the Chesapeake Bay region.

There were tens of thousands of these crabs along the grass flats.

Morris Island Lighthouse on Folly Beach near Charleston

Shrimp boats offshore at Folly Beach

Morris Island Lighthouse

Sweetgrass baskets at the Charleston Market

Beaufort, South Carolina

Our horse for the Carriage Tour

May 8, 2012, Winding our way just a little further south, we stopped in the second oldest city in SC, Beaufort, established in 1711.  We decided a local horse-drawn carriage tour would be a good introduction to the city.  The carriage driver provided more facts and stories about the history of the area than we were able to absorb, but it was a perfect way to get a feel for the background of the region. 

Cuthbert Home built in 1810

Tabby Manse built in 1786

Alan standing next to one of the massive, old oaks.

Stately homes, many of them built in the 1700 or 1800s, and majestic oaks line the waterfront area of the city.  The morning after our carriage ride, we took a self-guided walking tour of the city trying to absorb a little more of the history.  The Historic District of the city was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1969, so any work, even a simple paint job, requires approval.  The buildings' colors have to remain as they were originally.  Among interesting tidbits, porch ceilings are painted black or blue in order to prevent wasp or mud daubers from creating nests on the ceilings.  We didn’t see a single nest on any of the dozens of homes we walked past; so I think Alan will be painting our porch ceilings when we get back home. 

St. Helena's

Graveyard at St. Helena's

St. Helena’s Episcopal Church, established in 1712, is celebrating 300 years of serving the Beaufort community.  In the graveyard surrounding the church, veterans from various wars, through its history, are marked with flags from the U.S, the Confederacy, and Great Britain.  The church has been put to other uses through time.  Local legend says the British used the church as a horse stable during the Revolutionary War.  During the Civil War, the Union Army used the church as a hospital.

Tabernacle Baptist Church

Tabernacle Baptist Church, the first black Baptist Church in Beaufort, was formed in 1861 following the federal occupation of the city.  The artist who created the stain-glass windows in the church was diagnosed with cancer after completing the first window and was told she had a few months to live.  She completed all the windows in the church prior to her death, 8 years later.  The church is also the burial site of Robert Smalls, born into slavery in 1839.  He went on to serve in the Union army and, ultimately, served in both the South Carolina state legislature and U. S. House.

Hunting Island Lighthouse

While we explored the Beaufort area, we camped at Hunting Island State Park.  We opted for the beach campground.  We were 3 rows away from the ocean but it was a short walk down to the water.  Walking to the south you come upon a tree graveyard similar to the one we experienced at Botany Beach (near Edisto Island.)  This is near the lighthouse location.  The lighthouse is open to the public and for $2 you can go the 167 steps to the top.  We decided not to do the climb, but I’m sure the view would be incredible.  Mosquitoes are a major issue in the treed area near the lighthouse (and throughout the Park.)  Palmetto, pine and oak trees line the trails.  It’s lovely but you want to be well supplied with mosquito repellant before starting out. 

Hunting Island Beach on low tide

Biking to the north end of the beach on low tide, we found hard-packed sand that went on for a few miles.  At some points, the beach seemed to be half a mile wide, and with the ocean glistening alongside, it was gorgeous.  Shrimp boats could be seen just a couple miles offshore and shrimp is seen on the menu of most restaurants in town.  The shrimp certainly should be fresh!

Shrimp boats

We indulged heavily on seafood during our visit.  Alan dubbed the Shrimp Shack (not far from Hunting Island) as the best fried shrimp and corn fritters he has ever eaten—so that was lunch for him twice.  They are only open from 11-2 or I’m sure he would have eaten dinner there as well.

We enjoyed the visit to Beaufort but it is time to move on.  Savannah, GA is our next destination.

Sunset overlooking the marshes

Deer begging for handouts at the campground

Edisto Island, South Carolina

Marshlands at Edisto Beach area

May 4, 2012, Moving toward the South Carolina coast, we stopped for an overnight stay at the Sesquicentennial State Park east of Columbia.  This 1400-acre park includes a large lake that provides fishing and kayaking opportunities.  On a previous stop at this park, we had enjoyed peaceful walks on the trails.  For this visit, the park was full to capacity.  The campsite and picnic areas were both crowded.  Obviously, the park functions as a convenient and popular getaway for the nearby city.

Bike trail at Edisto State Park

Wanting to explore a couple of the fingerlings that jut out into the Atlantic along the South Carolina coast, we stopped first at Edisto Island.  Camping at Edisto Beach State Park, we were sandwiched between the marshlands to the west and the ocean to the east.  This popular seaside town consists primarily of short-term rental housing with a grocery store and a handful of restaurants and small businesses.  The park, though, provides delightful chances for beach walks, shell collecting, birding, fishing, and biking.

Painted Bunting

Biking on one of the trails through the park, we spotted a male Painted Bunting singing his lovely song to perhaps lure a mate.  The distinctive purple, red and yellow-green bird is threatened due to a loss of habitat but, over the days we spent in the park, we spotted 3. 

A nearby bike rental business was able to change out the flat tire I acquired on the trail.  He marveled, “I’ve been in this business a long time but I’ve never seen a bike tire flattened by a shark’s tooth!” 

I was just grateful, that even though we were prepared with mosquito repellant, the tire went flat after we had left the palm and oak tree forest that is home to a substantial number of the insects.

The "Bone Yard" at Botany Beach

Botany Beach, a few miles from the park, has one of the highest densities of loggerhead turtle nesting on the Eastern Seaboard.  We enjoyed walking through the “Bone Yard.”   Though the eerie stumps of trees has been a noted part of this beach for quite some time, Hurricane Irene (summer of 2011) was responsible for substantial changes.  We were told that 50-75 feet of the beach had been washed away by the storm.  This is the same hurricane that created flooding in Vermont as we were trying to cross that state last summer.

Learning about the Gullah culture and food on our visit to Charleston, last year, we were on the lookout for the chance to indulge in some Gullah style cuisine.  Main’s Market had a limited menu and a funky atmosphere but offered a good selection for our lunch one day.  Okra stew, squash casserole, mac and cheese, pork ribs and creamed corn were among the items listed on the menu.

The salt-water marshlands of South Carolina contain around 3500 hammock islands that provide habitat for a number of species.  The marshlands are also incredibly beautiful and serene, but now we are ready to move further south.

Drive to Botany Beach

Bone Yard at Botany Beach

Winding Our Way Home

Virginia Creeper Trail

First signs of Fall

Oct. 9, 2011     Moving south at a faster pace than the norm for us, we will be climbing the stairs to our own place in less than a week.  But we wanted to take advantage of our proximity to Damascus, VA to take a ride on our favorite bike trail.  The Virginia Creeper Trail, the 17-mile ride from Whitetop Mountain to the town of Damascus was starting to show the fall colors.  A week or two from now it will be dressed in its’ fiery fall finery.  We moved slowly down the trail, taking time to enjoy pausing at the bridges, appreciate the varied palette of the trees and even did a little fishing in the river.  Unfortunately, by arriving midweek we were unable to track down any of the “Crooked Trail” music that the area is famous for.  The closest venue I could find was about 60 miles away, which in the mountains means at least a 2-hour drive one way.  Not something we’d want to do for an evening show.  On our next visit, we’ll be sure to time it so we can make it for the Monday night Smyth County Jam.

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Marshes at James Island

Heading over to the coast, we decided to explore the city of Charleston, SC.  We’ve driven through this way before and had experienced some of their famous low country cooking, so this was something I wanted to partake in.  The collards, black-eyed peas, cheddar cheese grits, okra and tomatoes, all foods that I had eaten as a child growing up in the south but just don’t prepare now.  This is good food and worth going out of the way for.  With almost 500 restaurants in the city, there are plenty of good places to choose from.  Just look for the locations with the lines out the door and the happy customers departing. 

Horse-drawn carriage at the City Market

One of Charleston’s most popular stops is the City Market, first built in 1807, this four-block area of shops has a variety of vendors including artists, jewelers, clothing and, perhaps, the best known, the sweetgrass baskets by the indigenous Gullah population of this area.  The Gullah are descendants of former slaves living in coastal South Carolina and Georgia.  They speak their own language; have their own cuisine and have cultural influences based on their African heritage. 

Wandering the streets, we enjoyed the architecture, the smells wafting out from the restaurants and the sight of the numerous horse-drawn carriage moving through the inner city providing tours.  Fortified with crab cakes, red beans, and rice and cheddar cheese grits, we wandered the streets a bit more.  I think there are as many gift shops as restaurants, so no problem buying a quality Charleston souvenir.  There are also a number of museums, galleries and restored antebellum homes in the area to explore, much more than we could begin to fit into our day.  Heavy rain and winds are forecast for the next few days, not good for sightseeing, so we might as well venture on back toward home.  But, we’ll be out on the road again soon.

Fishing along the Trail

Biking down the Creeper Trail