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Showing posts with label Chile. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Chile. Show all posts

San Pedro de Atacama

Sunset over Church of San Pedro de Atacama
Departing Arica for Antofagasta at 8 AM, we had tickets for a 13 hours bus trip.  Unfortunately, road construction, inspection stops, and engine overheating issues caused delays. And, it was further delayed when the bus stopped running at all, due to said problems, and we waited by the side of the highway for another bus to be dispatched.  We arrived 4 hours late and very hungry.  The fruit which had been packed for our travels was confiscated at the first produce inspection stop.  Not realizing this was even a possible issue, the only other food we had packed was a few nuts.  The lunch served on the bus was questionable so Alan passed on that opportunity, and it was full of gluten, so not something I could eat either.  Luckily, our hotel in Antofagasta had a selection of foods for sale from their pantry, even gluten-free options, so we were able to eat on our arrival around 1 AM.

The following morning we headed to the airport, picked up our rental vehicle, a red Toyota pickup truck, and drove out to San Pedro de Atacama through a heavy copper mining district.  Chile is the largest producer of copper in the world, with roughly 20% of the country's GDP coming from this mineral.

San Pedro is a popular destination for sports enthusiasts, and it seemed that 90% of the tourists around the village were under 30.  Hiking, mountain biking, sand-boarding are just a few of the activities available.  Tour businesses occupy roughly every 3rd or 4th storefront in town, so finding transportation and a guide to the local attractions is not a problem.  Since we had a vehicle, which was appropriate for even the off-road areas we wanted to see, we headed out on our own to explore.  Over the next 3 days, we discovered spectacular, other-worldly beauty.  Stargazing is also a popular activity here, due to the lack of light pollution and the arid climate.  In fact, the world's largest astronomical telescope is located 31 miles outside San Pedro at 16,000 feet.  But with overnight temperatures in the teens during our visit and lack of sufficiently warm clothes, we bypassed the opportunity to check that out.  It was too cold to stand outside our bungalow at 7900 feet, much less travel to a destination twice that high.

Flying next to Santiago, we spent 2 days in the Barrio Lastarria neighborhood, where we had stayed last year.  Outstanding restaurants make this area a popular destination while in the city, so why not stay there?  Now time to head back home, for a little while at least.
Lagunas Miscanti y Miniques
Click on the pictures to enlarge.
Valley of Death
Sunset in San Pedro
Valley of the Moon
Lagunas Miscanti y Miniques
Valley of the Moon
Valley of the Moon
Sand dunes we did not slide down.
Valley of the Moon
Valley of the Moon
Our desert bungalow in San Pedro
Valley of the Moon
Valley of the Moon
Geoglyph on the drive to San Pedro
Valley of Death

Salar de Talar- this area has ethereal beauty, which takes your breath away
Salar de Talar
Salar de Talar
Vacuna munching on some ice in a field
Driving out to Salar de Talar, gorgeous


Atacama salt flats
Lake across from the salt flats
Laguna Chaxa with flamingoes

Laguna Chaxa with 3 varieties of flamingoes
Laguna Chaxa

Piscinas de Litio  There are 2 of these, deep-water pools strangely in the middle of the desert
Wild donkeys spotted off the road
Valley of Death
A tiny portion of the copper mining activity


Waiting for our replacement bus.  Alan breaking out a box of wine (only the best) for an evening cocktail.

Plaza de Armas in Santiago



Snow-capped mountains surrounding Santiago on this rainy, overcast day


Putre and Parque Nacional Lauca

At Lago Chungara, at 15,100 feet.
Parinacota Volcano in the background (20, 827 ft.)
Putre is a small village of almost 2000 located in the mountains of Peru.  Staying at the Travel Lodge near the edge of town, it was easy to move around the usually deserted streets for restaurants and small markets to buy food for our road trips in the nearby park.  Putre is the jumping-off spot, and acclamation point, for people wanting to hike or simply drive around to explore the nearby Parque Nacional Lauca.  The park is home to dramatic landscapes, with snow-covered mountains and colorful, painted-desert hills.  Wildlife ranges from the petite vicuna to their relations the alpaca and llama, and then the viscacha, a rabbit-like rodent living among the rocks.  Flamingos, Andean Geese, Giant Coots and Andean Seagulls were seen walking on the icy lakes and streams in the area.  Even though we knew that flamingos make their home in this area, the first time we saw them walking on the edge of a frozen lake, there was a disconnect.  Flamingos "summer" in this Chilean mountain area by the thousands December through March, but there were
Lagunas Cotacotani
still a few around at Lago Chungara and in other regions in the park during our July visit.

Visiting during the early winter, our evening temperatures were in the teens at night and warmed up to the 50s during the day in the valley in Putre.  On departing the valley, temperatures dropped as we climbed in altitude.  Over 3 days, we explored the park and tried to locate as much of the wildlife as possible.  We didn't have any luck with the exotic wildlife like the puma or rheas, but the views in our travels were amazing. 

Parinacota, a tiny village of 18 located inside the park, is home to a white-washed church built in 1789.  During our visit, we didn't see a single person but llamas grazed in the fields on the edge of the village with the volcano in the background, beautiful.

Luckily, prior to returning to the Arica, our host at the Lodge was able to sell us a few gallons of gas.  We had not realized there was nowhere to buy gas or that we would drive hundreds of miles exploring the park, emptying our tank.  With the closest gas station back along the coast, he sold us some of his private inventory so we would be able to make the drive without incident. 

Geoglyphs of the Lluta Valley
On our return to Arica, we made stopped to see the Chinchorro mummies at the Museo Arqueológico San Miguel de Azapa on the outskirts of the city.  They are the oldest known mummy remains in the world, with dates going back to 7020 BC, thousands of years before the first known Egyptian mummies.  Northeast of the city, we stopped to see the well-preserved geoglyphs of the Lluta Valley, thought to have been created somewhere between 600-1500 AD.

After an overnight stay in Arica, we headed to Antofagasta.
Overview of Putre
Vicuna
Parinacota Volcano in foreground and Pomerape Volcano behind it
 

At Lago Chungara looking toward the Bolivian border
 

Alpaca
 

In the village of Parinacota
Church in Parincota
Llama with volcanoes in the background
Viscacha
Lower elevation in the park with some unfrozen water for the flamingo
Chilean flamingo
Icy watershed along the roadside
 


More vicuna, we saw hundreds of these delicate looking animals
Llamas at Lago Chungara
Alan on a short hike.  You can see the frozen stream, but not the 40 mph winds with the 30-degree temperature.  We simply didn't have the proper clothing for this type of weather.
Heading back to Arica
Mummies