On the Road Again

At High Falls State Park Campground

On the road again

Goin' places that I've never been
Seein' things that I may never see again
And I can't wait to get on the road again

From On The Road Again by Willie Nelson

 Over a decade ago, following retirement, we headed out on the road in our RV to explore this beautiful country.  Though, we had both had the opportunity to travel extensively across the country in our younger years, the post-retirement travels would be different, relaxed, flexible, with no time restraint from employment or business demands.  The Willie Nelson song became a sort of anthem for us and we always cranked up the volume and played this song as we departed.

                                                                     

With our travels coming to a screeching halt last year with Covid-19, we had filled our time with sundry projects.  But, the desire to be moving around and exploring had never left either of us.  With State and National Parks and most public (and private) campgrounds open again by summer, we waited but finally made the move in November to purchase a travel trailer.  With reservations made online, and minimal, if any, interaction with campground hosts or other campers, it seemed like a safer way to travel in these still uncertain times.  Yes, we still wore masks and socially distanced as appropriate.  But living in our traveling bubble, the need to be concerned was less imperative.  

Traveling for a visit with our daughter, Nicole, and family (who exist in their own covid bubble), we moved

Sugar mill ruins

slowly up the Florida coast.  Stopping first near Flagler Beach, we discovered the Bulow State Park and Plantation Ruins.  Though I had been raised initially in nearby Daytona Beach, my parents had wisely determined that my siblings and I would have little interest in the ruins of this antebellum sugar plantation.  In fact, I had no prior knowledge of its existence.  The 9000-acre plantation also grew cotton, rice, and indigo with the labor of as many as 300 slaves.  In 1836, the buildings on the property were burned out during the Second Seminole War.  Today, nothing is really left of the home that graced the grounds but a short hike away we found the ruins of the once busy sugar mill where the sugarcane was turned into sugar, molasses, and rum.  Fairchild Oaks, magnolias, and cabbage palms line the roadways and trails in the park and wild turkeys proceeded us along the trail.  

Overlooking the Skidaway Narrows

Moving north to Georgia, we made a reservation at Skidaway Island State Park.  Part of Georgia's Intracoastal waterway, our generous campsite was surrounded by Spanish moss-draped live oak trees where we enjoyed the first campfire of the trip.  Trails winding through maritime forest and over salt marshes provide multiple looped walks.  The birds and wildlife of the park were hidden during our explorations.

High Falls State Park, south of Atlanta, was our next stop.  Though when reservations were made, the park was shown to be full, on our arrival, only a handful of other campers were on site.  It was almost our own private campground.  Once the sun began to warm things up the following morning, we headed out to explore the trails.  Along the Historic Trail, the Power Plant built circa 1890 and closed in 1960 is still in relatively good condition, and hovers over the Towaliga River.  Across the road, which divides the park, we found the trail leading down to the parks' namesake, the High Falls, the 135-foot cascading falls.  

Christmas Eve and the following 2 days were spent with our daughter, son-in-law, and granddaughters.  With snow flurries on Christmas Eve and temperatures below freezing for most of our stay, we worried somewhat obsessively about burst water lines and cracked tanks.  But, with Alan's actions to minimize the likelihood and some luck, we departed with no damage. 

Folly Beach

Rather than driving south, we headed east to Charleston, SC.  Having visited James Island County Park, outside the city, many years ago, we were aware of the annual Holiday Festival of Lights.  Previously missing out on the event by a few weeks, we wanted to take advantage of our proximity and booked two nights.  During our visit, Charleston was a mandatory mask city and on our stroll around town, roughly 90% of the visitors/residents were complying.  Sadly, countless storefronts were closed down, many permanently.  A handful of cafes and restaurants posted, "No mask, no service" signs.  Wandering to the Historic Charleston Market, we found a lineup for entry. Persons entering were counted with persons exiting counted on the other end to limit the capacity.  Deciding not to enter the still crowded market, we departed the city and moved on to Folly Beach.  The wide, white-sand and mostly deserted beaches offered a chance to enjoy the perfect weather. 

Taking advantage of the Holiday Festival, we drove through the display both evenings of our stay.  Christmas music could be played in conjunction with the drive from a local AM station, adding to the festive mood.  The 643-acre park also offers a 3.5-mile paved loop biking/walking trail which was scantly used in spite of the packed campground.

Located at the southern tip of Georgia, Crooked River State Park was our final stop before heading home.  Located amongst palmettos and Spanish-moss draped oaks, the campground was full but the large site provided privacy.  The quiet roads furnished the opportunity to explore the park on our bikes.  Four short hiking trails were available but persistent gnats dissuaded us from utilizing them.  Kayak trails are also offered but we hadn't brought our kayaks, and there are recommendations for appropriate times to paddle due to the strong semidiurnal tides.  Something to save for another trip.

All in all, it was a delightful trip, and I'm sure we'll be back 'on the road again' soon.    

Old Power Plant at High Falls SP

Shrimp boats near Folly Beach

Charleston Market

Great White Heron at James Island

Walking along the salt marshes at Skidaway Island

Christmas flamingos

Overlook of the saltwater flats of James Island near the trail 

 

Savannah, GA

One of the Historic Squares in Savannah

May 11, 2012.   Driving south along the coast, we headed into Savannah, the oldest city in Georgia.  Founded in 1733 by James Oglethorpe after landing along the waterfront bluff.  Oglethorpe developed a relationship of mutual goodwill and respect with a local Indian chief, Tomochichi.  This friendship resulted in the settlers being allowed to not only settle but to flourish.  Oglethorpe laid out Savannah in a grid with 24 squares (parks,) intertwined with wide streets and business areas.   22 of the squares still exist in the historic district.  They include grassy lawns, huge, old live oak trees covered with Spanish moss (which is an air plant, not a parasite,) monuments, fountains and even a few playgrounds.

Savannah Cotton Exchange

Our first day in town found us walking along the River Street District, starting at the Cotton Exchange.  The Exchange, finished in 1887, was built at a time when Savannah was one of the largest cotton seaports in the world.  Now, the Exchange and the numerous warehouses that fronted the water have been transformed into over 80 shops, galleries, boutiques, pubs and restaurants lining the Savannah River.  

Peacemaker

The Tall Ships Challenge, an annual event alternating, over 3 years, on the Great Lakes, the Pacific and the Atlantic coasts of North America was starting to organize for the next 3 days of festivities.  All 14 of the ships were already moored along the waterfront.  The Challenge is organized by Tall Ships America with the hope of sustaining the art of sailing.  Most of the ships offer apprenticeship programs in sailing, seamanship, navigation and boat maintenance. 

The following day we opted for the narrated Historic Savannah Trolley Tour.  This is an all-day, off and on trolley with 15 stops highlighting the most popular areas.  Hundreds of buildings with architectural and historical significance, including the River Street area and the remaining 22 squares, were designated as a National Historic Landmark in 1966.  Considered, by many, to be one of the most haunted cities in the South, there are also a large number of ghost tours and walks offered.

The City Market was originally built in the 1700s for farmers and fishermen bringing their products to town.  Time, fire, weather and the wrecking ball destroyed the original, and subsequent markets.  The current four-block market was a rehab project that started in 1985 due to the efforts of the Historic Savannah Foundation.  As one of the highlights in downtown Savannah, the Market is home to galleries, shops, and restaurants.

Best ever Crab Cakes with Lemon Aioli

Hopping off the Trolley at the Market, we decided to enjoy lunch at Belford’s Restaurant.  We concluded that a restaurant with 4 items rated as the Best Menu Item in the “Taste of Savannah” by Southern Living Magazine was something we needed to try.  I ordered the shrimp and grits with collard greens—can’t get any more Southern than that.   Alan ordered the Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes.  The crab cakes were filled with large chunks of crab meat and minimal filler; he pronounced these delights as the best crab cakes he has ever eaten. 

Cathedral of St. John the Baptist

Stained glass in the Cathedral

The Cathedral of St. John the Baptist, a Roman Catholic Church, is not the oldest church in the city but certainly one of the most beautiful.  First established in 1799, it was rebuilt for the second time by 1899. 

Birthplace of Juliette Gordon Low

The birthplace of Juliette Gordon Low, founder of the Girl Scouts, is one of the most visited sights in town.  Each year thousands of Girl Scouts from around the nation make the pilgrimage to her home.  In fact, the first time I visited the house was about 14 years ago with our daughter, Nicole, and her Girl Scout troop.  The organization, first launched in 1912, boasts more than 59 million alumnae.

Tybee Island Light Station

In the evening we drove out to Tybee Island, once the beach for the rich from Savannah. The primary reason for the trip out to the Island was to find the Tybee Island Light Station.  The original lighthouse was built in the 1730s, upon the order of James Oglethorpe.  The lighthouse has been rebuilt 4 times through its history but has guided boaters safely into the Savannah River for over 270 years.

Remembering The Crab Shack, on route to Tybee Island, where the Girl Scout troop had feasted many years ago, we decided to head there for dinner.   Having missed out on blue crab at our last two stops, we were looking forward to a crab feast.  But, they had run out of crab!   We moved on to Uncle Bubba’s Oyster House, to snag some local oysters.  Owned by Paula Dean and her brother, Uncle Bubba, this restaurant is popular with locals and tourists alike.  Grilled oysters topped with Parmesan cheese were my dinner; Alan indulged in the fried oysters.  Both meals were delicious and we had a front-row table overlooking the coastal marshlands.  A perfect combination.

Moving south again, we are headed to another historic city, St. Augustine, FL.

Barge moving along the Savannah River

 Picton Castle

 HMS Bounty (Replica)

The Crab Shack

Savannah on Dwellable

High Falls and Moccasin Creek State Parks, GA and Boone, NC

Remnants of Old Grist Mill

April 22, 2012, We left home, last week, headed for Boone, NC.  Along the route, we made our standard family visits as we headed north.  We manage to turn a 2-day drive into a 5-day trip, but since we are not really on a schedule that doesn’t matter.  Even though we have made the trek along I-75 more times than I can remember, we discovered a delightful new campground.

  High Falls State Park is located about one hour south of Atlanta and less than 

  5 minutes off of I-75.  The 1050-acre park also includes a 650-acre lake for boating and fishing, with renowned bass fishing.   There are several waterfalls along the Towaliga River, with the 135-foot High Falls being the tallest waterfall in central Georgia.  Trails through the park lead you along the river and provide lovely overviews of the falls and the remains of a grist mill, which used to operate along the river.  High Falls was a thriving little industrial town with a cotton gin, shoe factory, several stores, and the mill until around 1880 when a major railroad passed it by and it suddenly became a ghost town. 

High Falls State Park

Canoe, kayak and boat rentals allow you to get out in the lake to try your luck with the bass, even if you don’t have your own watercraft.  Yurts, with one of the best views in the park, are available for rental to visitors without camping gear.  The Falls View Restaurant, about half a mile from the park, provided lip-smacking, fresh catfish for our dinner.  In fact, the last time we had better catfish, at a restaurant, was about 25 years ago near Lake Okeechobee in Central Florida.   On that occasion, we literally saw the fisherman enter the back door with the days’ catch as we were parking.  That’s as good as catching your own, without the work. 

After a whirlwind 24-hour visit with our daughter, Nicole and her fiancé, Robert in Atlanta, we got back on the highway and headed for NE Georgia.

Staying previously at the Moccasin Creek State Park, we were familiar with the layout of the area.   So, we returned to the same vicinity.  Alan was enamored with the fishing in the stream running along the edge of the park.  Previously, he had landed a string of trout in almost no time.  Hoping for a replay of this type of fishing action, he gathered up his fishing gear, bought his license and headed to the stream.  Unfortunately, a couple hours later he returned with one trout.  The next morning was no more productive.  Our North Carolina fishing licenses are still valid, so maybe we’ll have more luck near Boone. 

April 29, 2012.  As we approached Boone, heavy clouds and fog prevented us from taking the drive up Grandfather Mountain but we stopped to give our brakes a rest from the mountain roads and to take a short hike to Linville Falls.  A bridal party was making the trek along the muddy trail along with us.  Preparing to shoot pre-wedding pictures the brides’ helpers created an informal dressing room in the wilderness for her to change to her wedding dress.  Having hiked to the falls in jeans, a sweater, and jacket she was transformed into a spring bride.  The falls would be a lovely backdrop for a wedding but I’m certain she was glad this chilly, gray day was not her wedding date. 

Spring flowers?

Before leaving home we had checked the forecast for North Carolina.  Lows in the mid-40s and highs in the 60s is what we were expecting.  Our heavy jackets remained at home, which turned out to be a mistake.

Waking the morning after our arrival, the interior of the RV was 40 degrees—the heater had gone off during the night.  Looking outside we found strong winds and a beautiful covering of snow on the ground. 

Our destination had been planned a few months earlier so that Alan could participate in another Mel Stabin Watercolor Workshop.  As he headed off to the warmth of the art studio, I tried to find a place to hide from the cold.  With the wind chill at 20 degrees, it wasn’t a day to enjoy the outdoor splendor of the Boone area.  Our heating system had never been tested before.  The electric heat stops working once the exterior temperature reaches 36 degrees, at this point the gas heater is supposed to kick on.  We just assumed it would work.  Luckily by the next night, the low temperatures wavered around 36 so we kept warm. High winds and rain persisted for the next 3 days.  Obviously, springtime in the mountains can be unpredictable. 

Flat Top Manor

The workshop kept Alan busy throughout the week; I hunkered down and tried to stay dry and warm.   Luckily by the end of the week, the rain stopped and the sun made an appearance.  Having researched things to do in Boone, I found the #1 ranked attraction to be the Moses Cone Manor.

In the late 1800s, textile magnate Moses Cone (aka “The Denim King”) and his wife started buying property near Blowing Rock, NC.  Over a number of years, they accumulated 3600 acres.  In 1901 their home, Flat Top Manor, was completed.  The home provides an outstanding overview of the Blue Ridge Mountain area.  Through the years Moses Cone built 25 miles of carriage roads on the homestead and planted over 75 varieties of apples, as well as oaks and maples.  The National Park Service now maintains the home, grounds and carriage roads.  The Southern Highland Craft Guild operates the interior of the structure.  Outstanding crafts, from the area, fill the home.  Crafts range from cornhusk dolls, pine needle and kudzu vine baskets, jewelry, weaving, ceramics, and fine woodworking.

Being advised that one of the prettiest drives in the state started just outside Boone, along Hwy. 194, we took off to explore.  The lovely, gentle mountain drive took us to Todd, NC where we discovered a newly opened Bakery and Mercantile (and Real Estate Office.)  Alan indulged in chocolate biscotti and snapped up a loaf of freshly baked bread and a jar of blackberry jam.  The drive provided overviews of cow pastures, numerous old barns, cornfields, and Christmas tree farms.

Bass Lake

Late afternoon found us walking at Bass Lake, between Boone and Blowing Rock.  The short, level and easy trail around the lake, surrounded by mountains, oaks, and rhododendrons, was a lovely interlude.  We followed this with dinner by a campfire back at our site along a mountain stream.  What a perfect day! 

The following morning we were scheduled to leave the Boone area but decided to explore the downtown area before departing.  Appalachian State University (16,000 students) takes over much of the city, but numerous highly-rated restaurants, clothing stores, and antique shops line King Street, the center of the downtown area.  Mast General Store, an employee-owned business that first opened in 1883, operates in a building that was built in 1913.   Shoppers can find a wide diversity of merchandise.  Everything from clothing to tents and cast-iron cookery to boots can be purchased.  The popular “penny” candy of yesteryear is available in large barrels and now sells for $6.99 a pound.  After stocking up on a variety of goodies from our past, we hooked up to the RV and headed south.

Georgia-Heading North

Tasha

July 14, 2011---- Heading north, this time without our copilot.  She is with us in spirit, not wanting to be morbid, but her ashes are with us.  Once we locate the ideal spot, presumably in a northern-forested area, we will spread them.  Taking off without her perched between us created a melancholy start for our trip.

 Of course, we can’t go north without stopping in Atlanta to visit with our daughter, Nicole and her partner, Robert.  As usual, food was one of the highlights of the stay.  Not only are they both first-rate cooks, but they also know all the hot spots in the city.  Having been to Atlanta numerous times over the past several years, we have explored most of the tourist venues of the area.  High Museum, however, offered an extensive introspective of the works of watercolorist, John Marin, and was a perfect way to spend a few hours.

Sweetwater Creek State Park, SW of Atlanta, provided an afternoon workout as we trekked up the trail past the old cotton mill, destroyed during the Civil War, and then up to the waterfalls.  Round trip for the ‘red’ trail that runs along the creek is only two miles, but the heat, humidity and rough conditions on the last ½ mile of the walk made it feel quite a bit longer.  The Park Service designates the last part of the trail as moderately difficult—I’d designate it closer to beginning rock climbing.  On Sunday afternoon the park was crowded with families taking advantage of the water and the shade.

Taking the recommendation of Nicole and Robert, we headed into Georgia Wine Country.  Near the gold rush town of Dahlonega, several boutique wineries offer tastings.  We managed to leave the area with only two bottles of wine.  Due to our weekday/morning stop, we found several of the wineries closed.  Driving through the area with steep roads, hidden drives and limited signage made it a challenge to locate spots but it was an enchanting drive.

Within the Chattahoochee and Oconee National Forest of NE Georgia, there are five state parks.  After studying the amenities, we decided on Moccasin Creek State Park.  The 2300-acre Lake Burton was the deciding point.  Planning on extensive fishing and kayaking this sounded like the best choice.  As it turns out this lake is primarily for families and groups.  The primary water activities were jet skis, water skiing, and speedboats pulling screaming kids in floats behind them.  None of which is ideal for kayaking or fishing.   Getting out on the lake in our kayaks at 
6 A.M. the first morning allowed an hour of peace and quiet before the chain saws and hammers started to work.  As we drove into the park the previous afternoon, we saw damage south of the park spread over a one to two-mile area created by a recent tornado.  Workmen started at the crack of dawn, removing debris, repairing roofs and rebuilding heavily damaged homes.  By 9 A.M. the jet skis and boaters were in the water.  A nice park, but it was not what we had in mind. 

Determined to catch something, we spent four hours on the water but with only a handful of nibbles, we decided to call it quits.  Later that evening, we went to the nearby Wildcat Creek (located on National Forest lands.)  Alan got a serious workout climbing up and down the steep inclines to get down to the trout holes.  He had a few nibbles but I landed three at an easily accessible spot just a few feet from the road. 

The following morning, as I slept in, Alan went out to the creek located inside the park and landed four brown trout.  He was pleased I had caught something but let’s get real here, he did not want to be outdone by me.  Our trip down to the Soque River in the evening netted us each one trout.

North Carolina is next on the agenda.  We’re meeting up with friends, Mickey and Cora, as they travel through the south in their RV.