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Cochin (Kochi), India


Chinese fishing nets
Wanting to extend our Indian experience, we flew to the southwestern coast to Cochin for a 2-day layover before flying on to Egypt.  Offering the world's first exclusively solar airport, the modern facility was impressive.  Having secured accommodations near the airport, the following morning it was a 1.5-hour ride to the Fort Kochi area.  Surprisingly, there is no Fort Kochi, even though that is the name of the community.

Having arranged for the driver and a guide prior to the trip, Peter, our guide for the day, was waiting near the waterfront on our arrival.  Chinese fishing nets are a visitor highlight and our first stop of the day.  As we walked along the waterfront we watched the nets in action and even had the opportunity to try it ourselves.  Even though trips to the area are primarily fueled by tourists, the nets are still used for pulling in fish. The seafood is sold in adjacent stalls and can be cooked by yet another street entrepreneur as you watch the nets in action.

Santa Cruz Basilica
Veering away from the waterfront we visited St. Francis Church, the first European church built in India.  Built originally of wood in 1503, it was later reconstructed in stone and completed in 1516.  Vasco da Gama, the Portuguese explorer who first came to India in 1498, was originally buried in the church in 1524.  Next, we spent some time at the nearby Santa Cruz Basilica first constructed in 1505.  The cathedral was destroyed by the British in 1795 but was rebuilt and consecrated in 1902.  Continuing in the religious mode, we were driven to a section of Cochin known as Jew Town.  The road leading to the Paradesi Synagogue is filled with shops selling clothing, jewelry, and sundry souvenirs with salesmen pitching their products at each doorway.  Passing through the gauntlet is the only way to reach the only functioning synagogue in Kochi. which was built in 1567.  Several Belgian glass chandeliers decorate the interior, along with hundreds of hand-painted blue and white Chinese porcelain tiles that cover the floor.  


After a traditional Kerala vegetarian lunch, we made an unusual stop at a laundry cooperative.  Started in 1720 by the Dutch military, the ancestors of the families now working at the Dhobi Khana were originally brought here to clean the uniforms of the soldiers.  Laundry now comes from hotels, businesses, and individuals.  Each worker functions as an independent contractor and has their own sink and work area for ironing the clothes.  Clothes are hung to dry in the sun on coconut fiber rope which holds the fabric securely in place.  Cost for a dress shirt to be washed, starched, and ironed would be 20-25 rupees or about 30-35 cents.  One woman we spoke with, through Peter, uses coconut husk coals for her iron rather than electricity in order to keep her costs down since the husks are free.  Trying out the old-fashioned iron, I was surprised that it probably weighed 7-8 pounds, but worked just as efficiently as our modern irons, and needed to be moved quickly to prevent scorching the fabric.   

Mural at the Mattancherry Palace
Mattancherry Palace was our final stop of the day.  It was gifted and built for the King of Cochin by the Portuguese in 1555.   Numerous murals (an estimated 1000 square feet) completed in tempura style in warm colors depict Indian epics.  A museum on site shows off royal costumes, turbans, and weaponry from the days of the rajas.

Departing early the next morning, we traveled to Dubai and then to Cairo to start our Egyptian adventure.
Paradesi Synagogue interior (photo by Wikipedia)
No photography allowed inside.

Pulling in the fishing nets

Helping pull in the catch

Fishing boats along the shore

St. Francis church 

Seafood for sale along the waterfront

Traditional Kerala lunch 

Hanging laundry to dry on coconut fiber rope

Scrubbing the laundry












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