Knysna, South Africa--- On the Garden Route

View from the top of The Heads

Staying in Knysna (pronounced nice-na) for 2 nights allowed a little slow down for us.  With a small one-bedroom apartment overlooking the Bay, we had a fabulous view of the estuary and the rocky inlet, said to be one of the most dangerous inlets in the world.  A drive and hike around The Heads provided spectacular views from the sandstone cliffs.  After watching boats maneuvering the inlet, we were happy to be on solid ground.

The waterfront/marina offers many shops, restaurants, and water-oriented tours.  Alan enjoyed a “best-ever” pizza and beer, and I was even able to order a gluten-free version.  Oysters and calamari, which are both big in this area, were enjoyed the following day. 

Departing Knysna, we stopped at Birds of Eden, located near Plettenberg Bay.  As the world’s largest aviary, with 5-acres under a 165-foot high screen dome, we decided this would be a chance to see some of the South African birds we had missed in the wild.  Heavy vegetation and multi-level boardwalks allow visitors to rise up into the trees to see the birds and we saw dozens of gorgeous varieties.

Bloukrans Bridge, the world’s highest bridge for bungee jumping at 709 feet above the River, was our next stop.

Bungee jumping at the Bloukrans Bridge

We had no desire to join in the activity, but from a restaurant and other viewing platforms, we could watch the jumpers and hear their screams as they plummeted.  A camera at the jump point provided a televised view so we could watch the final movements before the jump.  

 At Storm River Bridge, considered the end of the Garden Route, we took a brief stop to enjoy the view of the gorge and take a short hike.  Then, we drove on to our stopping point for the day, Jeffery Bay.  Arriving after dark and departing in the heavy early morning fog, we were never able to see the surfing beaches the area is noted for.  But, we were able to enjoy our final South African calamari and fish dinners.  Here they referred to calamari as “white gold”, and we have been spoiled; calamari has never been as tender and flavorful.

Departing the following morning from Port Elizabeth, we flew on to Cape Town and then to Dubai for a new adventure. 

Rose-breasted Grosbeak

Beach at The Heads 

Knysna turaco

Up in the trees at the aviary

South African White Spoonbill

Overlook at The Heads in Kenyans

Grey-crowned crane

Mossel Bay, South Africa---On the Garden Route

The Caravel

Moving easterly from the wine district, our destination the following day was Mossel Bay, the starting point of the Garden Route.  Driving through mountains and heavy fog, there was little view.  On the flatlands beneath the mountains sheep and hayfields predominated with an occasional cattle farm.

By arriving in the late afternoon, darkness and fog obscured the beach the area is known for.  The following morning an even heavier layer of fog blocked the view.  In addition to beautiful beaches, the town is also known for cage shark diving, whale watching (June -Dec), and hiking in the surrounding mountains.

Historically, the Bay showed signs of modern human activity 165,000 years ago.  The first European explorers (Portuguese) to arrive here were captained by Bartolomeu Dias in 1488.  An extensive museum complex located near the waterfront tells the story of the early explorers and also houses a replica of Dias' ship, the Caravel.  Despite intermittent stops at the Bay through the years, fueled by the spice trade, the area was not settled until the 1700s by the Dutch.  

With heavy fog continuing to lay over the city at midday, we decided to move on to Knysna.  Along the N-2 Hwy., there are various aspects of the Garden Route National Park which offer opportunities to hike and explore.  Stopping at the Wilderness portion of the Park just east of the little community of Wilderness, we took advantage of this. 

Crossing the Tuow

The Half-Collared Kingfisher Trail followed the western bank of the Tuow River.  We crossed the river on a 3-person max, rope-pulled pontoon.  Parts of the trail were moderately difficult, but most were covered with a well-maintained wooden boardwalk.  With an early afternoon fog starting to roll in, we headed back to our vehicle.  Birds and monkeys, which are frequently seen on the walk, were missing during our 2-hour hike, but it was a pleasant outing nonetheless and time to move on.

Fog moving in