The traveling manatees by Nancy French: Florida Keys Getaway

Bound for Grassy Key, we had our hearts set on off-shore fishing with a company we have used many times in the past, the Lady Marathon.
As we made our way south, we received a call from the Lady. Winds exceeding 30 mph were forecast for the coming days, so our trip was canceled. Since most of our plans for the Keys involved going out in the water in some form, we were initially stumped.

The nearby Curry Hammock State Park provided some diversion. Kayaking was out of the question, even in the backwaters. Hanging out on the beach was a no-go unless being sandblasted while lounging is something you happen to enjoy. A number of windsurfers were taking advantage of the winds, but otherwise, the beach and water were deserted. Located just down the Overseas Hwy. from the main park, a 1.5-mile nature trail provided a short but interesting hike in what is truly the “real natural Florida Keys.” The hammock tree growth blocked most of the winds but slipped through enough to keep us cooled down as we explored. Roughly 120,000 years ago, sea levels dropped to the current level allowing the formation of the Key’s islands. What is exposed along this trail are remnants from the ancient coral reef and we found dozens of intriguing specimens.

Driving the following day to Key West, we loaded our bikes on the back of the
car. Stopping near the beginning of the island, we unloaded the bikes and headed into town. Luckily from our perspective, due to the ongoing Covid restrictions, there are no cruise ships traveling yet or hoarding the Key West waterfront. Typically, the area is inundated with thousands of cruisers. It was still busy, however, and heavy traffic made biking challenging at some points. Stopping at the renowned Mallory Square, we visited one of our favorite Key’s restaurants for lunch. El Meson de Pepe is a family-owned and operated establishment serving Cuban cuisine located at the edge of the Square.

A replica of one of the most famous ships of all time was docked next to the Square. The Nao Santa María is a replica of the lead ship of Christopher Columbus’ fleet used during his exploration of the “New World” in 1492. Like the original, it sports three masts and a bowsprit.

Weaving our bikes through town, we arrived at Fort Zachary Taylor State Park. Constructed in 1845, this masonry fortress protected the Straits of Florida and the Gulf of Mexico until it was taken out of service in 1947. After checking out the fort and the wonderful views from the second story, we biked to the beach area to hang out. The 54-acre park gives visitors an opportunity to swim, kayak, snorkel, or fish.

With winds dropping down to around 20 mph, we headed back to Curry Hammock with our kayaks to paddle and fish in the protected waters of the park. However, winds were still a bit of a challenge and the fish were not cooperating so we made it a shorter than normal outing. Moving to Sombrero Beach on Marathon Key, we were surprised to see the beach packed with visitors. We opted instead for Coco Plum Beach a few miles away. Almost deserted, this beach also provided an alcove of shrubbery to help block the winds.

Changing campsites, we drove the travel trailer to Long Key and set up camp at the Fiesta RV resort. Offering a waterfront view facing the Gulf, a pool, and a restaurant, we took advantage of the amenities. Margaritas, nachos, and fried calamari along the water was a nice change of pace. Crowded with visitors over the weekend, we were happy when they departed on Monday giving us a peaceful spot to relax.

Nearby Long Key State Park was the focus of another attempt at fishing. Launching our kayaks on an inland lake, we were somewhat protected from the winds. Mangrove growth throughout the waters created a sometimes confusing route. Prior to our departure, a ranger had pointed out twin cell towers near the office. “That is what you want to aim for when you get confused.” he had said. It became an important piece of information. I’m not sure when we would have worked our way out otherwise. Mangrove snappers were plentiful here, but the only ones attracted to our lines were undersized, so once again we left empty-handed. Fortunately, a fish market in Marathon was able to supply wahoo, yellowtail snapper, and Florida pink shrimp that rounded out our dinner menus for the week.

By midweek, the weather prediction said the winds would be dropping. Scheduling an outing on Captain Micheal’s party boat, the experience turned out to be not what we had hoped for. Unfortunately, the seas were still rough and numerous guests were ill throughout the 6-hour outing. With about 25 people on board, the captain and one disgruntled mate were perhaps overwhelmed. The total final catch for the boat was about 10 fish. It was rather a disappointment, unlike our previous outings.

With winds forecasted to drop to 15 mph, we booked a snorkel trip. Driving to Ramrod Key, we joined about 20 snorkelers and divers on a boat going out to Looe Key. While the seas were still far from calm, they were a big improvement from the previous day. In spite of the rough seas, the water clarity was good. While some of the other snorkelers spotted a Goliath grouper and a variety of sharks, our sightings were limited to parrotfish, tropicals, and a variety of corals. Thankfully, this reef is still looking healthy and it was nice to be back in the water.

Stopping overnight at a Broward County park, Eastlin Campground, we broke up the drive for Alan. Located near I-95, the campsite was a bit noisy but offered clean facilities, the opportunity to bike around the grounds, and a frisbee golf course for our afternoon enjoyment. We’ll be home for the coming month but will be traveling north in July to escape the summer heat.