Aveiro, Portugal

Aveiro, located along the west coast, is sometimes referred to as the "Venice of Portugal".  While you would never get the two confused, there are a number of canals running through this city.  And, somewhat similar to Venice, the canals can be transversed by tourists in boats, not in gondolas but in barcos moliceiros.  The colorful boats were traditionally used to harvest seaweed which was used as fertilizer.  With the advent of chemical fertilizers, the industry was no longer viable, and the boats were warehoused,  When the tourist industry began developing in Portugal, the boats were pulled from storage, cleaned up, and colorfully painted with designs ranging from religious to risque. 

Even though we probably could have walked to most of the places along the canal boat trip,

we hopped on board for the 45-minute tour of the city.  The boat's guide divided the small boat into three groups based on language, so he could more easily provide an English, a French, and a Portuguese narrative.  Passing the lagoon of Ria de Aveiro, we saw small hills of salt which had been harvested using techniques dating back to the 12th century.  Many of the shops in town have the local product for sale.  The city is also known for its extravagant Art Nouveau architecture from the early 20th century, and we passed a few of the structures along our trip.

While many of the walkways in Portugal are covered with ceramic squares, in Aveiro they have turned it into more of an art form and add decorative elements, like shells or sailboats.  There are also a number of ceramic tile mosaics throughout the city that tell stories of the area's history.  

Similar to the egg custard tarts of Lisbon,

Aveiro is known for its Ovos Moles.  Made from egg yolks and sugar, and covered in a thin flour wrap, they have ocean-themed shapes, like shells or fish.  There are a few specialty stores selling the treats exclusively, but it seemed we didn't walk 20 feet without seeing a sign indicating the adjacent shop was selling the product.  But to know if you have an authentic Moles, you have to look for the PGI sign.  This indicates the delicacy is produced in the traditional manner.  They are included on the European Union's list of the Protected Geographical Indication.

Seafood was once again the highlight of most menus, and we indulged in some seriously good food during our short visit.  But next, we are turning away from the coast to move inland to the Duoro Valley.  

Hill of salt at the lagoon

Grilled baby squid

Art Nouveau Museum

Along the canal

Ceramic mosaic showing the harvesting
of seaweed.

Walkway design

Mercy Church interior

Ovos Moles de Aveiro

A store selling nothing but canned fish,
primarily sardines.  The Portuguese do
love their sardines!

Ovos Moles everywhere!

17th Century Mercy Church

Yummy!