The traveling manatees by Nancy French: Salema, Sagres, and Lagos Portugal

Early morning before the crowds
at Salema beach

Departing Lisbon in our rental car, we were headed to the southern Algarve coast to the little town of Salema. Once we were out of the city, the agricultural aspect of the country was immediately apparent. We passed countless vineyards and olive groves. Dry conditions along the route helped explain the many fires Portugal has been experiencing this summer.

Historically Salema is a fishing village, but tourists have descended on the area. Fishing, especially for octopus though, is still part of the economy. Near the shore, we saw a number of pottery pots that are used for catching them. The octopus climbs into the pot to ambush its prey and clings tightly to the interior when the pot is hauled in by the fisherman, making its final deadly mistake. Early in the morning, tractors are used to haul the fishing vessels to the water. Through the day signs of fishing disappear and the beach is crammed with tourists in rented chairs with umbrellas. Finding a hotel across from the water, we used Salema as a base for a couple of nights to relax a little and explore some nearby towns.

Sagres, located at the southwestern tip of Portugal, is now best known for its surfing, impressive cliffs, and beautiful beaches. Four major beach areas allow visitors to select conditions appropriate for how they want to spend the day. The only building of historical importance is Fortaleza de Sagres. The fortress dates back to the 15th century and was built atop the 200-foot cliffs on the orders of Henry the Navigator. It was heavily damaged by the tsunami of 1755 and rebuilt. Standing atop the immense cliffs, it's hard to imagine the waters of the tsunami reaching this level and destroying the fort.

Driving easterly, we moved on to Lagos. While the city is known primarily for its beautiful

beaches, we headed into the historic district located along the riverfront. Wandering along the riverside promenade, we spotted the overloaded ferry boat taking visitors to the nearby beach. Tour boats also run along the river and a local was selling shells he had gathered offshore. The Lagos fortress built around 1690 also sits at the river's edge. Located across from the fortress we found the city walls which date from the 16th century and the nearby Santo Antonio church with a statue of Henry the Navigator near the entrance.

Walking the cobblestone streets, we discovered a restaurant offering fried sardines and bacalhau à brás (salt cod with potatoes and egg). Alan had been skeptical of trying grilled sardines but decided to give the fried version a try, and I was looking for yet another way to eat the salted cod. With a couple glasses of wine, we were set for lunch.

The beaches of Salema were busy, but nothing like the beaches in Lagos. We drove back to catch some sun before moving on the following day.