The traveling manatees by Nancy French: Évora, Portugal

Zigzagging mountain roads made it a long slow drive from Tavira to Évora. Arriving in the late afternoon, we spent quite a while trying to locate our hostel in the middle of the historic district. Only cars belonging to local residents are allowed within the medieval walls, so the GPS was no help. Alan's cell phone had been left on the plane in Copenhagen, and mine had been left at home. In Lisbon, we had purchased an inexpensive Portuguese phone for emergencies (like the rental car breakdown), but it didn't offer internet. Finally, with the help of multiple strangers, we were able to find our room.

Church of Graça

Évora is a fascinating city and we crammed a lot into our visit. Located in the interior of the country though, the pleasant weather we had been experiencing disappeared. Mornings started off nicely, but by midday, temperatures rose to between 100 to 105. Taking a nod from the locals, we decided to retreat to our air-conditioned room from 12-4, and then resumed our exploring. Strolling along the streets you are taken back in time. Churches, museums, and monuments throughout the city tell the story of its past.

One of the most unusual places we visited was the Chuch of São Francisco opened in 1550. Extensive renovations have returned the chapel to its former glory, but one of the most unusual aspects of the church is the Chapel of

Bones. Constructed in the 17th century, the chapel is intended to encourage reflection on the transitory nature of human life. Over the door, a phrase greets visitors, "We bones that are here, for yours await." Thousands of bones and skulls cover the walls and pillars. Granted, it's a bit macabre but also intriguing. In another part of the church, a restored dormitory has been turned into a museum and a nearby room displays a collection of hundreds of Portuguese and international nativity scenes.

Aqueducts were built in the 1500s to bring water to the city, and not by the Romans who were here much earlier in the city's history. Located on what was once the Roman Forum, we found the Roman Temple which was built in the 1st century AD.

Interior, Church of Mercy

There are a dozen or so churches within the walls. The Church of Mercy started in 1499 wows visitors with the gorgeous blue and white tile work, gold-leaved covered carvings, and large oil paintings. Évora Cathedral, dating from the 11th century, was expanded and renovated through the centuries. It is the largest medieval cathedral in Portugal. Climbing 135 steps on the narrow spiral stairway to the top of the cathedral provided great overviews of the area.

On our departure, we traveled about 10 miles west to visit the Almendres Megalithic Site.

Forming two large circles, the 90 plus menhirs are thought to be part of a ceremonial/religious site. Dating back to around 6000 BC, it is considered to be one of the largest and oldest megalithic sites in Europe. As a frame of reference, the well-known Stonehenge was constructed about 3000 BC. Most engravings on the stones have been worn away by time, but a handful are still barely visible. A human face on one of the statues is thought to perhaps be an ancient god.

Throughout our drive in this area, we had seen groves of trees with the bark stripped from them and a number painted on the trunk. Stopping at the visitors center for the Almendres site, which has exterior walls of cork, we had an in-depth discussion with one of the staff. He provided not only information on the megalithic site, but also on the nearby cork oak grove. Cork farming is a long-term commitment, with trees being planted

The dried cork heading to northern
Portugal for processing.

for future generations. The bark is first removed from the tree when it is 15-20 years old, with subsequent harvests taking place every nine years. Portuguese law requires that the last number of the year the bark is stripped be painted on the tree in order to protect this sustainable industry. Harvesting is done by hand with a special ax, and by highly trained workers. The first two crops are used for industrial or construction purposes. Typically by the third crop, the quality and density of the cork is appropriate for use as wine stoppers. With the usable life of the tree extending to 150-200 years, the oaks are benefiting the planter's children and their progeny for quite a while.

Now, it was time to head back to the coast to Nazaré.