Snaefellsnes Peninsula-Iceland

Traveling up the west coast to the Snaefellsnes Peninsula, we headed out of Reykjavik.  Though a tunnel to the peninsula provided a shortcut, our GPS failed to provide that information and we wound up driving around the Hvalfjordur fjord.   The unnecessary additional miles, however, were beautiful and we learned that the US and British Navy had been based within the fjord during World War II. 

Heading north, we pulled off the road to a nondescript building.  Highway signs indicated there was wifi (there wasn’t) and restrooms.  It turned out to be the visitor center for the region, which provided us with a much-needed map.  Craggy cliffs, moss-covered lava fields, and soaring mountains dotted with waterfalls accompanied us on our drive.  

Basalt columns, ravines, and caves surround the pier at Arnarstapi.  Brisk winds almost dissuaded us from venturing out to the waterfront, and only a handful of tourists walked beyond the warmth of the nearby restaurants.  A statue of the demi-troll Barour Snæfellsas overlooks the water.  After getting chilled to the bone, we backtracked to a little restaurant, where we partook in a delicious, traditional, hot, Icelandic Lamb and Vegetable Soup.  At $18, it was the most expensive soup we’ve ever indulged in.  Prices throughout Scandinavia are high, but Iceland topped everywhere else.

Entering the Snæfellsjökull National Park, the landscape is primarily moss-covered lava fields and impressive cliffs.  The mountain the park is named for is still active.  A glacier dominates the view but was frequently covered with clouds during our visit.  Stopping at Svalpúfa, the high cliffs were teeming with birdlife and we had a wonderful view of Lóndrangar cliffs.

The Black Lava Pearl Beach turned out to be a lesson in patience.  Not realizing until our vehicle was committed to the turnoff, there were perhaps a hundred cars, campers, and buses trying to fit down into a parking lot designed for maybe 40 vehicles.  We were able to park and walk out to the overview, which was lovely, but it probably took 45 minutes to extract ourselves from the chaos.  A field of friendly horses and two more lovely waterfalls, with nary a car in sight, prompted our next stop. 

Exiting the park, we drove into the small town of Hellissandur.  Once a major fishing center, the town’s economy is now based more on tourism and is considered the Icelandic capital of street art with over 30 large murals decorating the town.  Approaching the neighboring town of Rif, we saw thousands of seabirds darting along the shoreline and nesting in the oceanside cliffs.  This is Iceland’s largest arctic tern area. 

Looping back into the park, we were driving alongside and beneath Snæfellsjökull but cloudy skies blocked it from our view. Road construction and gravel road warnings had stopped most travelers from taking this road but it provided a good shortcut back to the main road for heading back into Reykjavik, and by this point, we had learned about the tunnel under the Hvalfjordur.  Arriving back at our apartment 11 hours later, we decided to do something a little less demanding the next day.