Copenhagen, Denmark

From Orlando to Washington, DC to Brussels and finally onto Copenhagen, roughly 36 hours after departing home, we arrived at our Airbnb apartment in Copenhagen.  Slightly worn out from our travels, we took a short break, and then proceeded into the center of the city to begin exploring.  Purchasing a Copenhagen City Small Pass on our arrival at the airport provided access to all public transit within the city.  Having the use of the metro, trains, buses, and trams at a reduced rate (based on our usage) made getting around the city much easier.  

Bike riding is big here.  Almost two-thirds of the population get to work or school on bikes.  With flat terrain and an infrastructure that supports this mode of travel, it is a healthy, environmentally positive choice for the majority.  As visitors, bikes are available for rent, but the speed and skill of the locals seemed a bit intimidating.  Even walking around the city, caution needs to be taken not to be run over by bikers whizzing by.  So, we stuck with walking, in addition to the public transit system.

Starting at Radhuspladsen, the square dominated by City Hall, we wandered to the counterculture community of Christiania.  Established in 1971 by squatters on an abandoned military base, the town consists primarily of hippies and potheads.  Hard drugs are not allowed but marijuana (which is illegal in Denmark) is widely and openly sold throughout this town.  Throughout the area, residents remind guests frequently that photos are not allowed. The few pictures we were able to get were at the entrance or of buildings with no locals included.  But tourists are definitely welcome here, sales of jewelry, crafts, food, and beer (lots of beer!) contribute to the economy.  

The following morning we headed back to the square for a free tour with Sandemans Tours.  Offering “free” tours throughout Europe, the guides provide tours in exchange for a tip, and then they also try to sell tourists other products offered by the company.  Our guide, Jack, was knowledgable, but also provided a light-hearted approach as he led us on the 3-hour walk around many of the city’s highlights.  Temperatures hovered around 60, with slow, steady rain for the most of the walk.  

Fortunately, the rains lifted for a while and allowed us to head out on a one-hour boat tour of the city.  Departing from Nyhavn, the city’s picturesque harbor, the boat traveled out into the open waters of the inner harbor and then along the narrow boat-lined canals winding through the city. 

With one more day left to explore, we select two highlights.  Moving across town, we headed first to the Rosenborg Castle and Treasury, the Renaissance castle of King Christian IV built in the early 1600s.  Elaborate furnishings, art, and tapestries decorate the castle with unique, specially created clocks in almost every room.  In the Rose room, an eight-foot-tall walnut cupboard houses what would be considered a present-day jukebox.  Created around 1760, during Frederick V’s time, this device still plays a selection of 23 songs from that era.  The Great Hall on the second floor displays all the pomp you might expect.  Three silver lions guard the king and queen’s thrones made of narwhal tusks and silver.  Tapestries depicting Christian V’s victories in battles grace the walls.   Finally, the self-guided tour ends in the basement where the gorgeous Crown Jewels are on display. 

Traveling back to the center of the city, we took a quick snack break and then headed on to the National Museum.   Providing a history of Denmark starting back in the Stone Age, the displays move visitors through to the 20th century.  Luckily, from a historical perspective, the people from the Bronze, Iron, and Viking Ages believed in sacrificing their enemies and many other items into the local bogs, which preserved the items to be discovered by archeologists.  Everything, from boats and weapons to coins and carriages and dishware, was “sacrificed” to be discovered later.  Many items are remarkably intact despite, in some cases, being over 2000 years old.

A special exhibit on Ghengis Khan and the nomadic tribes of Mongolia was also on display.  Intricately decorated, beautiful costumes of the elite were unexpected (by us) as something which would exist in these desert dwellers.  Information on how they construct their temporary homes (gers, a yurt-like structure covered in felt made of wool from their sheep), the close bond to their animals.  The importance of music in the culture was also eye-opening.  The four hours we had available for our visit wasn’t nearly enough to see everything, but at least we experienced a fair amount of their offerings before they locked their doors for the day.

While I enjoyed the marinated herring and smoked mackerel offered, Alan preferred the local hot dogs.  Vendors selling a variety of hot dogs, sausage and bratwurst are scattered across the city.  We also learned that danish sweet rolls did not originate in Denmark.  These pastries originated in Vienna and were brought by Austrian bakers to Denmark in 1850, while Danish bakers were on a long strike.

Traveling back across the city to our apartment, we packed our suitcases and prepared for our departure the following day.  We’re heading next to Stockholm by train. 

Pictures follow.