Surabaya

As the second-largest city in Indonesia, with a population of over three million, they enjoy the reputation of being the cleanest city in the republic.  Wide, tree-lined boulevards and numerous parks are prevalent.  It was a far cry from our experience in Jakarta. 

We opted for a 5-hour tour providing a glimpse of some of the highlights.  Tourist police once again provided assistance moving through traffic.  Since we were visiting on a Sunday most businesses were closed, and with the city's wide streets, the thrill aspect of the ride was missing.  With a visit to the Surabaya Mayer's (mayor's) office, the first Dutch government building, we were treated to a few traditional Javanese dances with local beverages and snacks offered.  A hot, sweetened ginger broth served over multi-colored gelatinous balls was one of the offerings.  Cold herbal drinks concocted from turmeric, ginger, and cardamon was another option.  Colorfully garbed dancers moved to the rhythm of an ensemble of percussion instruments. 

Our next stop was the Joko Dolog sculpture located at Apsara Park.  According to legend it was sculpted in 1289 as an attribute to a ruling king in Singasari and found its way to Surabaya in 1817.  

Next, we moved on to the House of Sampoerna, a kretek cigarette factory built in 1858 in the Dutch colonial style.  With a 70% tobacco, 30% clove ratio, the cigarettes may not be to the liking of most Western smokers.  According to the guide, clove is a part of the cigarette to make it "healthier".   Four hundred women typically work at the facility 6 hours a day, 6 days a week.  Due to our Sunday visit, the only activity was in the museum.  The women are paid piece-mill at 2 rupiahs per cigarette and produce an average of 400 cigarettes a day.  They are rolled by hand with the help of a machine for cutting.  Government health officials are now trying to dissuade use by requiring photos of cancers caused by the cigarettes posted on the packs.  Culturally, though, smoking is still very much a part of life here, especially for men.  The company produces a higher grade, mild regular for distribution to the Indonesian Presidential Palace.  

We moved on to the Submarine Monument which was established to honor heroes of past conflicts and to preserve a part of the nation's history as a maritime power.  The Russian built sub has been a monument since 1998.  Having a chance to walk through the sub provided a very brief glimpse of how difficult life would be for men serving on this type of vessel.  Nearby, we saw the city's iconic statue of a shark and crocodile fighting.  The city's name is based on an old fable of a battle between the two. 

Our tour moved to the Kayoon Flower Garden Market.  Many shops were closed due to our Sunday visit, but a couple of young ambassadors for the city showed us around.  We spotted numerous brightly painted styrofoam boards with messages and flowers attached.  The boards are purchased as decoration for everything from graduations to weddings to birthdays.  

Finally, we stopped at the five-star Hotel Maj which served a buffet of traditional foods.  Apparently, most contained my nemesis, gluten, since I was served a plate of tropical fruits and roasted potatoes.  On our return to the ship, our guide sang a few old Javanese songs. 

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