Though the official name of the city was changed following the end of the Vietnam War, locals and visitors alike still refer to the city as Saigon. Our ship was docked at Phu My, a commercial port, a 90-minute drive to this city of nine million. We were met outside the gates by a driver and our guide, Jack. The drive to the city is primarily through crowded suburbs but offered glimpses of the verdant countryside.
Our tour started with a stop at 2 iconic architectural landmarks, the Notre Dame Cathedral and the Central Post Office built between 1877 and 1883 by the renowned designer, Gustav Eiffel. Jack introduced us to a local icon. The 89-year old gentleman had worked as a scribe at the post office until 1990. Following his retirement, he continues riding his bike (3 km. each way) and coming to "work" Monday through Friday so he can help people unable to read or write their own letters. He has become a celebrity of sorts with people lining up to talk with him. He is fluent in English and French, in addition to his native Vietnamese.
The War Remnants Museum provided a graphic photographic history of the Vietnam War from the North Vietnamese (communist) perspective. The USA's widespread use
of Agent Orange as a defoliant and subsequent congenital defects was a major disturbing part of the exhibit. It was a challenging reminder of that tragic part of our history.
Book sales at a street market |
Our next stop was for lunch. While the setting was rather strange, a single table with no view in the second story of a house, the food was once again varied and delicious. Shrimp Pho Soup, Hanoi Spring Rolls, grilled steak mink, Squid roasted with salt duck, tomato sauce over pan-fried fish, shrimp fried rice, sautéed chayote squash, fresh fruit, and lotus tea completed our menu.
Following lunch, we headed to the Buddhist temple, Thien Hau Pagoda, which is dedicated to the Chinese Goddess of the Sea, Mazu. Intricate friezes and carved tableaus were impressive, and once again the faithful were making donations to the temple, primarily through the purchase of flowers or assorted icons.
We ended our trip to the city with a visit to a facility which employees handicap individuals, creating artwork involving crushed eggshells finely sanded and then coated with layers of lacquer. Many, we were told, were second or third-generation victims of Agent Orange.
American fast-food companies, large department stores, and thousands upon thousands of small businesses abound in the country. But there is no mistaking, that in spite of the bustling capitalism on display, this is a communist country and free thought is not welcome.
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