The traveling manatees by Nancy French: Bali Tour Day

Researching our options on Bali for the 2 days the ship was stopped on the island, I had been in email contact with a highly-rated local guide, Edy (Edy Smile Tours). However, the evening before, we made a major decision regarding the remainder of our itinerary. We decided to jump ship, not literally of course, and spend our remaining time in Bali. The ship was headed on to another Indonesian port and then back to Singapore where we had hotel reservations, and we still had another week before flying back to the US. With the shift in gears, we now had 13 days to explore Bali.

Scheduling a whirlwind day of activities with Edy, we headed out our first morning to meet him outside the port gate. Hectic traffic at our port, Benoa, continued as we moved through the island's

capital city of Denpasar (pop. 1.1 million). The first stop was a traditional Balinese village, where we saw construction similar to the homes we saw on Lombok with clay walls and straw roofs. One

major difference in Bali is religion. While Lombok, only 70 km. away and most of Indonesia, is 85-90% Muslim, Bali is almost 84% Hindu, 14% Muslim, with the remainder Christian or Buddhist. Balinese Hindu homes all have a temple area, even very modest dwellings.

Everywhere, in the streets, on the sidewalks, in temples, at doorways, at storefronts, the Hindus make offerings to the gods or demons on a daily basis. Constructed with a base made from banana leaves or palm fronds, they are topped with fern-like green leaves, a few flowers (frequently including golden mums), rice, sometimes a cracker. They are then sprinkled with holy water that is blessed by the Hindu priest. At this point, the offering can be placed. They are driven over and walked on because they are not necessarily placed out of harm's way, but we were told that once they have been placed, the spirit is released and there is no problem if they are ruined. Offerings placed off the ground are made to gods, those placed on the ground are made to demons.

At a batik center, south of Ubud, we were greeted by a guide who explained the technique. We watched women creating artful pieces, which involve a tremendous amount of close, detailed work. Designs are made on white material which is covered with wax, they etched through the wax following the design and then the fabric is dyed. The process is repeated multiple times to complete the piece and add more colors. Finally, the wax is removed by putting the material in boiling water, a tremendous amount of work involved.

Next, we visited a Celuk village (Muslim) with 130 residents. Each family has a small plat on which they have their home and nearby a small corral area for a cow or two. Rice is the main crop here, with vegetables grown also. Rice towers for storage help keep vermin from the stored food. Numerous caged roosters where seen and we learned that cockfighting

is a popular pastime. The unfortunate animals spend most of their lives in a small basket.

Though we had seen numerous rice fields and terraces in our travels, the Tegalalang rice terrace is set up as a showplace for tourists. Trekking through the terraces can be a part of the experience if desired. We opted to just enjoy the view.

Next, we made a brief stop at a coffee plantation, where we had an opportunity to try a variety of coffees and teas served overlooking coffee plants. The renowned Luwak coffee was available for tasting as well, but for a steep charge, $4 for a tiny taste. In town, we were told a cup would go for as much as $10. This coffee comes from civets (a cat-like nocturnal animal) which eat the coffee beans, their stomach enzymes change the chemistry of the beans. The beans are collected from the turds, cleaned and roasted, making what is supposed to be one of the best coffees in the world. Alan bought a tiny bag to bring home to brew.

Mas village, known for their wood carving was next. Carving was an art handed down historically from the priestly Brahmana caste. But for decades now, the carvings have moved into a different realm. On driving through the town, we saw store after store loaded with wood carvings and furniture of every description. Stopping at one larger shop, a store guide led us through the shop explaining the types of wood used and showing the levels of skill (and sharp differences in price) between the beginning carvers and the masters, who may take 15 years or mo.re to reach that level. Unique woods and extraordinary pieces were on hand. Photos were not allowed in the shop, but we were able to take a shot outside where a number of men and women working.

Our final stop for the day was a performance which included the Kecak fire dance. As we sat waiting

for the show to begin, 80 or so shirtless men wearing saris appear and form circles facing the center of the stage. Chanting "chak- a-chak-a- chak" over and over and over again, they provide the mesmerizing "music" for the program. A Hindu love story about Prince Rama rescuing his Princess Sita from kidnappers was the first story. The second dance was one in which evil spirits are driven out of a village. In the final dance, a entranced man on a straw horse dances through, and finally walks on a fire made from coconut husks. Beautifully crafted, colorful and sometimes bizarre costumes, dreamlike performances by the dancers, and the haunting music made for an enthralling program.

Now, it was time to return for our final night on the ship, to pack, and figure out what we are going to be doing in Bali!