Dawson Creek, Dawson City, Yukon, Whitehorse
Most of the restaurants along this highway have bakeries. I had started an informal search for the best rhubarb pie, which I found at Dawson Peak Resort in Teslin, and Alan discovered bumbleberry pie (apples, rhubarb and blackberries). Both were equally delicious--treasures found.
Next we made it into Whitehorse, a fairly large city (pop. 25,000) for these parts. We stumbled onto the Copper Moon Gallery--a coop of 35 local artist with phenomenal diversity and talent. Probably one of the best galleries of this type either of us have ever seen. The curator told us about Artic Char--sort of a cross between salmon and trout. Luckily we found some in a local market, moist and flavorful --another great discovery. The highlights of the area were the SS Klondike and the salmon step ladders. The Klondike was the biggest stern wheeler ever built to bring people and freight up the Yukon River. A ranger led tour provided us with great insights to the past. The ladders (the world's longest) help the salmon go back upstream to spawn and bypass the hydro electric dam which now blocks the river. In Whitehorse, the temperature soared to 100 degrees with the evening temps around 50. After a couple of days we decided to head north to seek out colder weather.
Twenty miles north of town we saw a sign for 'Mom's Bakery'. This is half way between no place and neverland. We hadn't seen anything for miles. Intrigued we turned off the highway and drove down a dirt road for another two miles before we saw the bakery. Trying to figure out how she had stayed in business for 26 years in this desolate spot we learned that she owns 3 active gold mines which have been in the family for 3 generation--so maybe it doesn't matter how many cinnamon buns she sells. We loaded up on goodies and hit the trail. We stopped for the evening at Fox Lake. This time of the year the days are very long which explains why Alan was fishing at midnight and I was up until 1:30 AM (way past my bedtime). The lake was magical with the golden sky silhouetting the trees and mountains. It was such a compelling view, I couldn't go to sleep until exhaustion won out--to top it off Alan caught his first grayling there.