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Anchorage, Seward and Homer

August 19, 2009  
 Anchorage is a city of 275,000, so almost half the population of Alaska lives here.  Wandering through the many galleries and unique gift shops, we also learned about the 9.2 earthquake and subsequent tsunami of 1964 which devastated SW Alaska.  Numerous restaurants line the downtown streets, but we opted for Phyllis' Seafood and treated ourselves to king crab--one of the house specialties.   

Traveling south to the Chugach State Park, we camped at Bird Creek, where we could view the bore tide, the area is known for, from our campsite.  This twice-daily phenomenon takes place in the Turnagain Arm.  The wide basin empties during low tide to become a huge mudflat and fills again from Anchorage to Portage on the high tide.  On a particularly good day, like a full moon, the tide comes rushing in.  Our timing to catch the tide was perfect but was less dramatic because of our visit during a new moon.  We also took advantage of fishing at Bird Creek, a place the park service refers to as an “Alaska combat-fishing battleground.”  During our visit, in spite of tons of silver salmon, the anglers were numerous but not combative.

Headed into the Kenai Peninsula, we stumbled onto a roadside restaurant serving razor clams.  Though neither of us had previously had an opportunity to try this delicacy before, the buttery, tender clams are something we will be looking for again.  Glacier-covered mountains on both sides of the road and a glacial stream rushing by on our right created an area that photos just cannot do justice.

 Arriving in Seward, we camped at Miller’s Landing, a funky fish camp on Resurrection Bay.  Hot showers were rumored but glacial showers had somehow taken their place.  On our arrival, Alan registered for the Silver Salmon Derby which was taking place the following day.  In a town of 3000, they had approx. 6000 participants.  Alan did not catch the biggest salmon, in fact, he caught none, but black rockfish and lingcod will be on our menu for quite a while, so he did have a good outing.

Upon our arrival for the Kenai Fjords cruise the next day, we were informed that the winds were 25 mph and gusting to 40 mph with choppy seas, so we rescheduled the trip and took off for Exit Glacier in the Kenai Fjords Natl. Park.  We signed up for a ranger narrated hike to the glacier.   Aaron, our range and a theatrical major, provided us with an animated and informative tour.  He even introduced us to moose poop--which is somewhat firm and oval until it is touched.  It falls apart easily into sawdust because of the moose diet and how their bodies process the food; it makes a good fire starter we were told. (But can you really depend on finding a good pile of moose poop when you really need it?)

Winds calmed somewhat and we were able to go out on the fjords cruise the following day.  The trip was enhanced by the appearance of the sun which we had not seen in a number of days.  (This is actually a rainforest area.)  Humpback whales, sea otters, sea lions, and tons of sea birds, including puffins and murres (look like a small penguin) were seen during our trip.  The turning around point for the cruise was the Aialik Glacier.  Stopping about 1/4 mile away from the 400-foot face for 20 minutes, the captain requested silence.  The crunch and crackle of this river of ice could be heard as it moved forward, and finally the thunderous roar as the chunks of ice calving from the face into the bay creating big waves.  Incredible experience.  

Driving around Seward, we were constantly reminded of the vulnerability of this town.  Signs every few blocks direct drivers to the Tsunami evacuation routes.  This little town was destroyed in 1964.  Alan's barber, in town, told us they have rumbles about once a month to remind them of the potential danger.  Before departing town we paid a visit to the Alaska SeaLife Center.  This research-based aquarium provides underwater views of Alaskan marine life, and snorkeling is definitely not on our itinerary.

Next, we took off for Homer.  The view from the bluff as we approached town was breathtaking.  We landed a campsite at the end of Homer Spit--surrounded by the waters of the Kachemak Bay.  Starkly beautiful.  The following day Alan went out on a 1/2 day halibut charter.  He returned with  13 and 25 pound halibuts (2 is the limit), which yielded out about 18 pounds of fillets.  Halibut party when we get back in town!

The days are starting to get shorter.  We now have sunset around 10:30 and it is dark by 11:00,  and we have finally been able to stop using the eye masks for sleeping.


Upon our departure from Homer, we stopped at the Norman Lowell Gallery.  Tucked away down a dirt road this expansive, multiple room gallery showcases his life's work.  Known for his Alaskan landscapes, he does oils, pastels, watercolors, sculpture and writes poetry.  This spry artist, now in his 80's, still paints 4-5 hours a day, in spite of severe eye problems.  He lives with his wife, Libby, in the 3000 sq. ft. cabin, which he built by himself, on the property he homesteaded 60 years ago.



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