San Juan and Culebra, Puerto Rico

Beachfront to the east our of hotel at Isla Verde

A few months ago, we realized our Jet Blue travel credits were about to expire.  Our plans to travel to Cuba in the spring of 2020 had been canceled (along with the plans for millions of others) as Covid-19 swept around the world and shut down virtually all travel.  Rather than reschedule Cuba, we decided to return to Puerto Rico.  In addition to our free flight, we had a number of free Marriot hotel nights that had accumulated over the past 2 years, so this was going to be a relatively inexpensive trip. 

Our last visit to the island had been in February 2016. In September 2017, Puerto Rico was devastated by back-to-back hurricanes Irma and Maria.  The island suffered catastrophic damage to all basic systems. 100% of the power grid was offline, safe drinking water was unavailable, and many waste treatment plants were inoperable.  While substantial repairs to infrastructure have been completed, a great deal of work still needs to be done.  The island has suffered from a decades-long financial crisis which has been aggravated further by the Covid-19 pandemic.  With the restrictions on travel loosening, tourists are returning to Puerto Rico in swarms from the US mainland.  Our plane was full to capacity.

Arriving at the Luis Muñoz Marín Int. Airport in San Juan, we were whisked away to the nearby Marriot Isla Verde with our prearranged driver, Jose.  Located on the outskirts of San Juan, our only plan for this stop was to hang out beachside.  The weather was perfect, sunny but mild with a delightful breeze and despite our sunscreen, nine hours in the sun, even under our canopy, was definitely not a good idea. 

Though plans for snorkeling can be arranged on the big island, we wanted to return to the nearby island of Culebra.  Roughly an hour's drive

Snorkeling at Melones Beach

 to the new ferry terminal in Ceiba, Jose once again picked us up and delivered us to the ferry.  Departing on the 10:30 vessel, we were able to settle in our new accommodations by early afternoon and start exploring the island in our rented golf cart.  Initially, planning on a return to the fabulous Flamenco Beach, we were disappointed to learn that the entire beach and parking area was closed and would be for the duration of our stay.  Reasons for the closure varied depending on who was providing the story, but the bottom line was that the only public beach on the island with amenities was not open.  

Over the next three days, we returned to a few of our previous favorite snorkeling spots.

Starting with Melones Beach, overlooking the Luis Peña Natural Reserve, we were the only snorkelers in the water.  Soft and hard corals appeared to have been minimally impacted by the storms but unlike our previous visit only a handful of tropical fish showed up during our swim.

Visiting Punta Soldado, we were disappointed to find the water full of seaweed and not snorkeling friendly.  However, following a visit to a local snorkel shop we learned that we needed to travel about a quarter mile further to the end of the road on the southwest side of the point to find the clear waters.  Extensive damage to the coral was evident here, but young, new growth was widespread, so hopefully, over time this area will recover.  Water mampoo trees provided shade and a couple of deserted beach chairs created an ideal spot to enjoy the beautiful views. 

At Tamarindo Beach

Known for its calm waters, the following day we headed to Tamarindo Beach.  Corals we had seen on our previous visit were gone, but seagrass beds were lush and numerous turtles and a couple of manta rays were the highlights of this snorkel.  

Zoni Beach on the northeast side of the island was our next outing.  Not known for snorkeling, the white sand beach and turquoise water provide a lovely place for a walk or just for relaxing or picnicking.  Still sunburned from our first days in San Juan, we were grateful for the shade trees near the water’s edge.  As with all the beaches (except the closed Flamenco Beach), the only amenity provided is parking.  This happened to be the most crowded beach we visited, with perhaps a dozen people spread over the miles-long beach.

Covid-19 restrictions on Culebra and in San Juan were mixed.  Masks were required on our ferry trip and the grocery stores also

Along Zoni Beach

required masks.  The small store on Culebra was well-stocked but only allowed about 4 customers at a time.  They provided a sink outside for washing your hands and then had hand sanitizers inside the door which must be used as well.  Most small businesses did not post any restrictions, though the coffee shop near our lodging required a mask and only allowed 2 people at a time to enter.  When making our reservations on Culebra in March, I had been told that restaurants were just starting to reopen.  Luckily, the Palmetto Guesthouse had a small kitchen and that became important for a number of our meals.  We had no hot water and the jalousie windows in our room would not close, which seemed to allow the roosters crowing at dawn to be in the room with us, but the air conditioner worked well and though our room was small it was clean.  Perhaps only 6-8 restaurants on Culebra were open and they were frequently overcrowded and apparently understaffed.  However, we enjoyed wonderful, grilled whole snapper and pina coladas one night at Mamacitas and another fine dinner at the Dighny Dock overlooking the water another evening.  Some restaurants were only open Friday and Saturday.   

View along the Malecon

On our return to Ceiba, Jose transported us to the Courtyard Miramar near Old San Juan.  Spending literally hours walking, we were able to explore many areas that we had not seen on our previous visits.  Galleries, gift shops, restaurants, and food trucks near the water were open, even on Mother’s Day, when we assumed the city would shut down.  Stores and sidewalks were busy in the shopping district.  However, the Malecon, the major waterfront boardwalk that wraps around the historic district, was relatively deserted and the views were gorgeous. 

With the heat index peaking at 95 degrees, the hottest by far that we had experienced on this visit, we closed out our day with a poolside margarita, a perfect ending to our visit.  The next morning, we began the journey back home.  Plans for the summer are uncertain, but if we travel, I’ll be sure to bring you along for the trip. 

Sculpture and fountain along the Malecon

At Tamarind Beach

Manta Ray at Tamarind Beach

Overview on the drive to Punta Soldado

One of the many alarm clocks on Culebra

At Melones Beach

Capitol Building of Puerto Rico in San Juan

Mural in San Juan

Enjoying a Bacalaitos (Codfish Fritter) near the waterfront

Culebra, Puerto Rico

On Flamenco Beach

Our morning ferry from Vieques to Fajardo was a smooth, easy trip.  Unfortunately, winds and seas picked up a bit prior to our afternoon ride to Culebra, so a number of passengers, myself included, battled with seasickness, making the 60-minute ride seem longer.  On arrival, we found a seat in a public van that whisked us off to our accommodations along with 8 additional passengers, providing us with a short tour of the island as the driver delivered other riders to their destinations.

Green fish(?) with a neon green outline, seen at Tamarindo Beach

Arriving late in the day, we walked to dinner that evening and then secured our rental vehicle the following morning.  Several snorkeling sites are available on the island but we headed to Tamarindo Beach, known as a site for spotting rays and turtles.  Neither were around as we snorkeled but we saw a nice variety of coral and fish.

Based on our research, and recommendations from the owner of the bed and breakfast, we headed out that afternoon to Flamenco Beach. Considered one of the best beaches in the world, it is easy to understand how the beach attained this ranking.  Roughly two miles of white, pinkish sands bordered on one side by clear, turquoise waters, and on the other side by palm and sea grape trees.  With restrooms, showers, beach rentals and several snack bar type eateries located just off the beach, everything you could need for the day is available.  No entry fee is charged, parking is free and lifeguards are on duty in the central portion of the beach.  During our two visits to this beach, we walked the length, and also rented beach chairs for hanging out.  Snorkeling at both the far right and left end of the beach is also recommended but feeling a bit lazy, we didn't want to cart our wet suits, and other gear the distance.  During our weekday visits, the park was not particularly crowded, but I can only imagine that during high season, and on weekends the beach is probably packed.

As part of the Luis Pena Channel Natural Reserve, Melones Beach, offers the possibility of seeing turtles and rays.  Told to get there early to see the turtles, our 9A.M. arrival time the next day was too late, and the turtles had already breakfasted on the seagrasses and taken off for the day, but we did see string rays, a spotted eagle ray,  a ribbon eel and a great diversity of fish. Fan and soft corals, along with several types of hard corals were seen here as well.  A peacock flounder hid in the sand, and only a slight flutter of movement allowed him to be seen.  After a couple of hours in the water, we moved back over to Flamenco Beach for some lunch and relaxation.

Culebra was our favorite of the eight islands we visited, with so much to offer.  On boarding the ferry our last day, we regretted that we ran out of time to explore the waters off the small island. 

  On our return to Fajardo, we had booked a room at the Fajardo Inn and rented a car so we could explore the immediate vicinity and make a trip to the nearby El Yunque National Forest which is the only tropical rain forest under the protection of the US Forest Service. The site is located in the Luquillo Mountains, where year-round precipitation ensures lush, green landscapes and a diversity of animal life.

The following day we were picked up in Fajardo by a taxi service and returned to San Juan for our flight home. 

 The next trip will be to South America in April, with plenty of adventures awaiting us there.

Peacock Flounder hiding in the sand

Jewelfish swimming next to golden coral

Wooden statue near the ferry dock in Culebra

At Tamarindo Beach

Vieques, Puerto Rico

Prior to our departure from home, reading about "things to do" in Puerto Rico,  Bioluminescent Bay in Vieques had been highlighted.  Further research revealed that the new moon phase, which is the best time to visit the Bay, was aligned perfectly with our trip. 


Disembarking the cruise ship in Old San Juan, movement through customs was a slow process, but an hour later we met up with the driver we had arranged for our trip to the far eastern end of the island.  With plans to visit Vieques and Culebra, small islands accessible by ferry from Fajardo, we went directly to the ferry office on our arrival in town, in order to purchase tickets for the morning.  Tickets frequently sell out, and we didn't want to take a chance on not being able to get on the boat for the first leg of our trip.  Planes also travel out to the islands, but at $2 pp ($1 for seniors) the ferry is more than reasonable, and only takes about 90 minutes.

Beaches, snorkeling, and fishing are also popular on the island but the luminescence in the bay is

Alan with 300-year old Ceiba tree

considered the brightest in the world.  Before leaving home, a night kayak trip with Bieque Eco Trips was scheduled.

With a woefully inadequate staging area at the port, chaos reigns temporarily along the waterfront as each ferry arrives.  Despite this, we quickly found a taxi and were whisked away to our car rental facility a few miles away.  After checking into our room in Esperanza, we grabbed a bite to eat and then started exploring.

For 60 years, the US Navy used a sizable portion of the island as a
training ground and bombing range.  But following demonstrations in the late 90s, increased pressures resulted in the Navy withdrawing from the island in May 2003.  Much of the land formally held by the Navy became the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge (NWR).  Numerous small beach areas are available within the refuge, and on a weekday, we were able to secure a private beach with palm trees and sea grapes providing shade.  Luckily, we had rented a jeep from a company that provided a vehicle covered with scratches.  On the surface, this may sound strange, but after driving into many of the off-road spots to find the best beach in the NWR, we were happy we didn't need to give any thought to the condition of the jeep.


A number of snorkeling spots are available on the island, but the owner of our accommodations recommended Rompeolas Mosquito Pier, on the opposite side of the island, so we headed over there the following day.  Built by the Navy in the early 40s, the pier extends 1 mile out into Vieques Sound.  The calm, clear water revealed a great variety of sea life.  Starfish and turtles are frequently spotted there.  We didn't see any turtles but had a unique experience with an octopus.  We watched in fascination as the multi-tentacled creature transitioned into a rock-like shape, which totally hid it from view.  By the time my camera was lifted into a position to start snapping pictures, the legs were all tucked away, and the only visible portion was the eye, which also quickly disappeared.  Amazing!

Horses being ridden, or grazing on the island are a common sight.  Several hundred horses make their home here.  Though they would appear to be wild, most are privately owned, with brands identifying the owner.  Efforts have begun to slowly change this because of health considerations.  For the owners, horses roaming free do not need to be fed, housed or cleaned up after, and on the small island, it is easy to locate the horse if it is needed.   

Pier in Esperanza

On our second night in town, the driver and guide from Bieque's picked us up at the hotel, and we headed out to Bioluminescent Bay.  Also known as Mosquito Bay, we were concerned about the possible onslaught of bites, but neither of us was victim to even a single bite.  By the time we climbed into our double kayak, the sun had set, and without the help of a discreetly used special flashlight, and walkway embedded with a substance which glowed in the dark, making our way to the water would have been a challenge.  Our small group consisted of 2 other couples and our knowledgeable guide.  Wearing a glow-in-the-dark pendant and following his voice, we were able to locate our guide in the water.  No ambient light is allowed anywhere on the Bay, and on this night there was no moon at all.  The experience was magical.  Each stroke with the kayak paddle lit up the water.  Fish moving through the water looked like shooting stars, and a hand-dipped into the water came up looking as though it was covered with a mini-galaxy.  Knocking on the side of the kayak with the paddle would send fish darting through the water, and we enjoyed the neon blue trail as they swam away.  Spending about an hour paddling around the Bay, we headed into shore.  On land, we received a briefing on the constellations on view for the evening.  A cloudless sky and low light pollution provided the best stargazing experience I can remember in many years.

Luminescence in the bay is caused by a micro-organism called dinoflagellates, which glow when the water is disturbed.  Our guide discussed the organisms, and research revealed some other facts, but the bottom line is, it is a unique experience,  Unfortunately, photography of the phenomenon is very challenging.  After attempting time-lapse, video and use of a high ISO in an attempt to capture photos, I gave up and have to hold the photos in my mind.  Our guide softened my disappointment with a story about National Geographic photographers who had failed to capture the images.

Our third day in town, we returned our vehicle and boarded the ferry back to Fajardo, where we caught the afternoon ferry to Culebra, our next stop.

Rompeolas Mosquito Pier

Octopus transitioning- at this point, the only remaining visible part is its head and one eye- click on picture to enlarge

Octopus transition complete

Old San Juan, Puerto Rico in 24 hours

Arriving in Puerto Rico, we were greeted by our taxi driver, Danny, and whisked to the Hotel Milano in downtown Old San Juan.  With over 20 years having passed since our last, brief visit, we were anxious to explore.  Dropping our luggage, we headed out to the waterfront.  Wandering first to the Parque de las Palomas, where pigeons nesting in cubby holes in the old city wall,  outnumbered visitors twenty to one, and vied enthusiastically for the corn kernel treats purchased by tourists. 

Established by Spanish colonists in 1521, the area boasts numerous impressive fortresses and cathedrals, and countless squares and parks dot the landscape, interwoven with the beautiful old structures.

Lunching at Rosa de Triana, nestled on the ground floor of a building constructed in 1533, we enjoyed the ambiance of the outside patio, while enjoying outstanding sangria, black bean soup, plantains, and perfectly seasoned rice, shrimp and sausage tapa.  

 

Castillo San Felipe del Morro

Once satiated, we were ready to walk to the nearby Castillo San Felipe del Morro, an impressive fortress built by the Spanish to secure their holdings in the Caribbean.  Started in 1539, the structure was expanded and fortified further over the next 250 years.  Families dotted the greenways approaching the fort; flying kites, tossing balls and picnicking.  Covering over 27 acres and 6 levels, the fort was one of 6 located in the San Juan area, where the importance of this Spanish holding was never lost on the  Crown.  Walking through the fort, we tried to imagine the difficulty of such a posting for the soldiers defending this area from the English, French and Dutch forces throughout its history, ending with the attack in 1898 by the United States in which Spain finally lost this stronghold.

Free trolleys run around the old town, but our timing never seemed to coordinate with their route, so

Mime at one of the many plazas

after hours of walking around town, we were ready to take a break, and refuel.  Our taxi driver had recommended the restaurant, Punto de Vista, located on the top floor of our hotel, as his favorite in Old San Juan.  Alan dined on what he dubbed the best fish tacos ever.  I enjoyed a native Puerto Rican dish, Mofongo Relleno de Pollo, mashed green plantains, mixed with garlic and butter were the base, topped with a seasoned chicken and peppers, and then a tomato, pineapple, and cilantro salsa.  Mojitos and margaritas accompanied the wonderful meal. 

The following morning we resumed exploring, heading to Castillo San Cristobal.  This even larger

Castillo San Cristobal

fortress for the Spanish is located at a strategic point only a mile or so from San Felipe.  Open lands, historically, had offered the soldiers clear view all the way to what is now the city's cruise port, several blocks away.  During the 1900s, the city took over this parcel for government buildings, parking garages, restaurants, and stores.  The remaining structure is still impressive by any measure.  From a military perspective, the cleared lands had offered an open view of any advancing attacking forces.   The packed city streets of Saturday seemed strangely deserted on our Sunday morning stroll around the clean, well-maintained old town.  Church attendance or sleeping-in after late-night partying robbed the city of the throngs, at least through the morning hours.

Concerns about the dire straits of the Puerto Rican economy came up in every conversation we had

with locals.  All were concerned, and not necessarily hopeful, about issues of unemployment, high taxes, lack of representation of their concerns (since they are only a U. S. territory), and fears about how the opening of travel to Cuba will impact their vital tourist industry.

Looking forward to our first stop, St. Thomas, as we board our cruise ship, the Carnival Liberty.

Chapel in Old San Juan (1753)

Looking over toward 'new' San Juan