Noumea, New Caledonia

Departing our cabin in Noumea, we could hear rhythmic drums beating.  Walking out on deck to investigate, we found a New Caledonian group on the dock performing traditional music and dance pieces to welcome our arrival.  Unlike Easo, this city of 200,000 is well organized to handle the influx of regular cruise ships.  Immediately available at the dock, we found a money exchange, restaurants, shops and a large choice of inexpensive tours.  We decided on the “Country Tour.”   For $20 each, we were able to take a 2-hour bus trip to highlights outside the city.  In this expensive city, this was a great deal.  A cup of coffee and a croissant costs about $10.  Known for their French pastries, Alan was not going to leave the area without trying one but didn’t think it measured up to pastries we enjoyed in France many years ago.

This is a French territory, and French is the primary language, but over 100 native dialects are

also spoken on the cluster of islands known as New Caledonia in the Coral Sea.  Noumea, the capital,

is located on the largest island.  As the second-largest nickel exporter in the world, the “green gold” has been a major factor in the development of the island.  The influx of the U.S. military during WW II also had a major impact on the formation of the infrastructure of the island.  Their massive reef is second in size to the Great Barrier Reef of Australia.  Even though there are numerous snorkeling options available, the day started with rain and clouds, so we didn’t plan a water outing. 

Once out on our tour, we visited the La Ouen Toro, a historic point of fortification, which

provides a stunning overview of Noumea and the coastline.  Then we moved on to the Church of

Immaculate Conception, built in 1874, the oldest church in Noumea.  The Kanak Cultural Center, designed by Renzo Piano, offers a combination of traditional and modern Kanak architecture, in a truly unique design.  Everything on the island is pricey.  A basic 3/2 house runs about $400-500,000.  Seeing tin shacks in the mangroves, we were shocked to learn that the destitute are allowed to build tin houses here for nothing.  So Mother Nature’s nurseries are receiving a daily onslaught of garbage and sewage, and the people have one of the worst housing situations we have seen. 

All in all, though, this island and the surrounding islands and waters were the most beautiful we have visited.

Cultural Center

Easo, Lifou, New Caledonia

Arriving at this small island, the cruise ship was unable to dock.  Passengers were taken back and forth to shore by four-60 passenger tenders (boats).  Moving nonstop throughout the day, the tenders accommodated the whims of the guest.   With 10,000 inhabitants and no industry, the appearance of cruise ships to the island has been a boon to the economy, but

there is no real infrastructure to support tourism.  No banks, money exchanges, hotels or restaurants are available.  What they do offer is friendly locals in an incredibly beautiful setting.  We were greeted at the dock by a group of men and women singing in one of the native dialects.  Offers for hair braiding and massages, followed by a market place, were our introduction to the island.  The market sells clothing, jewelry, handicrafts, and food. 

Once on land, we purchased a mini-tour of the island.  French is the primary language but our driver spoke some broken English.  Luckily, her English was far better than my decades-old, unused French.

Stopping along our tour at a produce market, we were surprised to find no item, except cabbage, recognizable to us.  The local bakery offered some enticing pastries and chocolates, but unfortunately, without French Pacific Francs, we were unable to make any purchases.  Catholic missionaries came to the island in the 1850s and 2 large churches can be seen within a half-mile of the bay where the ship was anchored.  We stopped to visit one of the churches along with a nearby native grass hut.  The huts are still used as meeting places.

Santal and Jinek Bays offer swimming and snorkeling.  Alan snorkeled at Jinek for an hour or so.  Upon leaving the water, he claimed this to be the most outstanding snorkeling of the trip.  A colorful variety of corals and fish were available.  Sunburned and weary, we returned to the ship, on to a new port tomorrow.