The traveling manatees by Nancy French: Florida

Showing posts with label Florida. Show all posts

Florida Keys Getaway

Bound for Grassy Key, we had our hearts set on off-shore fishing with a company we have used many times in the past, the Lady Marathon.
As we made our way south, we received a call from the Lady. Winds exceeding 30 mph were forecast for the coming days, so our trip was canceled. Since most of our plans for the Keys involved going out in the water in some form, we were initially stumped.

The nearby Curry Hammock State Park provided some diversion. Kayaking was out of the question, even in the backwaters. Hanging out on the beach was a no-go unless being sandblasted while lounging is something you happen to enjoy. A number of windsurfers were taking advantage of the winds, but otherwise, the beach and water were deserted. Located just down the Overseas Hwy. from the main park, a 1.5-mile nature trail provided a short but interesting hike in what is truly the “real natural Florida Keys.” The hammock tree growth blocked most of the winds but slipped through enough to keep us cooled down as we explored. Roughly 120,000 years ago, sea levels dropped to the current level allowing the formation of the Key’s islands. What is exposed along this trail are remnants from the ancient coral reef and we found dozens of intriguing specimens.

Driving the following day to Key West, we loaded our bikes on the back of the
car. Stopping near the beginning of the island, we unloaded the bikes and headed into town. Luckily from our perspective, due to the ongoing Covid restrictions, there are no cruise ships traveling yet or hoarding the Key West waterfront. Typically, the area is inundated with thousands of cruisers. It was still busy, however, and heavy traffic made biking challenging at some points. Stopping at the renowned Mallory Square, we visited one of our favorite Key’s restaurants for lunch. El Meson de Pepe is a family-owned and operated establishment serving Cuban cuisine located at the edge of the Square.

A replica of one of the most famous ships of all time was docked next to the Square. The Nao Santa María is a replica of the lead ship of Christopher Columbus’ fleet used during his exploration of the “New World” in 1492. Like the original, it sports three masts and a bowsprit.

Weaving our bikes through town, we arrived at Fort Zachary Taylor State Park. Constructed in 1845, this masonry fortress protected the Straits of Florida and the Gulf of Mexico until it was taken out of service in 1947. After checking out the fort and the wonderful views from the second story, we biked to the beach area to hang out. The 54-acre park gives visitors an opportunity to swim, kayak, snorkel, or fish.

With winds dropping down to around 20 mph, we headed back to Curry Hammock with our kayaks to paddle and fish in the protected waters of the park. However, winds were still a bit of a challenge and the fish were not cooperating so we made it a shorter than normal outing. Moving to Sombrero Beach on Marathon Key, we were surprised to see the beach packed with visitors. We opted instead for Coco Plum Beach a few miles away. Almost deserted, this beach also provided an alcove of shrubbery to help block the winds.

Changing campsites, we drove the travel trailer to Long Key and set up camp at the Fiesta RV resort. Offering a waterfront view facing the Gulf, a pool, and a restaurant, we took advantage of the amenities. Margaritas, nachos, and fried calamari along the water was a nice change of pace. Crowded with visitors over the weekend, we were happy when they departed on Monday giving us a peaceful spot to relax.

Nearby Long Key State Park was the focus of another attempt at fishing. Launching our kayaks on an inland lake, we were somewhat protected from the winds. Mangrove growth throughout the waters created a sometimes confusing route. Prior to our departure, a ranger had pointed out twin cell towers near the office. “That is what you want to aim for when you get confused.” he had said. It became an important piece of information. I’m not sure when we would have worked our way out otherwise. Mangrove snappers were plentiful here, but the only ones attracted to our lines were undersized, so once again we left empty-handed. Fortunately, a fish market in Marathon was able to supply wahoo, yellowtail snapper, and Florida pink shrimp that rounded out our dinner menus for the week.

By midweek, the weather prediction said the winds would be dropping. Scheduling an outing on Captain Micheal’s party boat, the experience turned out to be not what we had hoped for. Unfortunately, the seas were still rough and numerous guests were ill throughout the 6-hour outing. With about 25 people on board, the captain and one disgruntled mate were perhaps overwhelmed. The total final catch for the boat was about 10 fish. It was rather a disappointment, unlike our previous outings.

With winds forecasted to drop to 15 mph, we booked a snorkel trip. Driving to Ramrod Key, we joined about 20 snorkelers and divers on a boat going out to Looe Key. While the seas were still far from calm, they were a big improvement from the previous day. In spite of the rough seas, the water clarity was good. While some of the other snorkelers spotted a Goliath grouper and a variety of sharks, our sightings were limited to parrotfish, tropicals, and a variety of corals. Thankfully, this reef is still looking healthy and it was nice to be back in the water.

Stopping overnight at a Broward County park, Eastlin Campground, we broke up the drive for Alan. Located near I-95, the campsite was a bit noisy but offered clean facilities, the opportunity to bike around the grounds, and a frisbee golf course for our afternoon enjoyment. We’ll be home for the coming month but will be traveling north in July to escape the summer heat.

At Looe Key

Golden Orb Nature Trail at Long Key

At Long Key

Along the Curry Hammock Trail

Gorgeous day in Key West

"The Wreckers" sculpture dominates the Key West Historic Memorial Sculpture Garden

View from the second story at Fort Taylor

Wekiwa Springs, Lake Monroe, Tomoka, Lake Louisa, Lake Kissimmee State Parks, and Bok Towers

Wekiwa/Wekiva?? Driving just a bit north of Orlando, we returned to visit Wekiwa Springs State Park. Having last visited over 9 years ago, one of the first questions on my mind was the confusing use of the name found on waterways, streets, housing developments, and businesses throughout central Florida. Linguists and a Seminole county historian seemed to have resolved the issue back in the 1980s but the name discrepancy persist. It turns out the correct word is wekiwa, a Creek/Seminole word meaning a spring of water.

Offering miles of hiking and biking trails spread across 7000 acres, visitors can spend hours exploring the park. Grounds surrounding the springs were crowded with families picnicking during our visit but the 72-degree water was not enticing many swimmers on this mild spring day.

Along Rock River Run

Wanting to reenact one of our prior experiences, we drove midmorning to Kings Landing bordering on the Rock River Run. Launching our kayaks, we headed down the river for the 8.5 mile trip to Wekiva Island. Unlike our previous paddle, a few more kayakers were on the waterway, but for the majority of the trip, we didn’t see another soul. At the halfway point, we stopped for a lunch break at the first spot where we could disembark, Big Buck Camp. A young couple had stopped as well and they were questioning if they were on the correct waterway. With frequent gator sightings and the bellowing of the male gators trying to lure a mate, they thought they had made a wrong turn into a gator preserve. As they departed ahead of us, we once again had the river to ourselves and the gators, of course. The orange/tannin water, generally one to two feet deep, was surprisingly clear considering the preceding day’s torrential downpour. As we approached Wekiva Island, novice kayakers and canoeists paddling upstream from the Island were ramming into each other and bouncing from one shoreline to the other.

Black-necked stilt

Unable to secure reservations at any of the nearby State Parks for the weekend, we traveled to Lake Monroe, a Volusia county park near Sanford. Located near a trailhead for a portion of the coast-to-coast (C2C) trail, we took a 5-mile round trip ride to Gemini Springs. The C2C trail is currently about 80% completed. Upon completion, the almost 250-mile trail will enable bikers/hikers the ability to travel from Titusville to St. Petersburg. The asphalt trail provided shade most of the distance for our ride and there were benches or a picnic table every few hundred yards. The following morning, we returned with our kayaks to the Gemini Springs Park and put in at DeBary Creek. Relatively high winds kept us within the creek and not venturing into the nearby lakes. Fishing attempts were in vain, but great white and blue herons, tricolored herons, osprey, Florida gallinule, and dozens of snowy egrets graced the water’s edge.

Chief Tomokie

Visiting nearby Sanford, we were impressed by the city’s extensive renovations to the downtown and waterfront area. Brick pavers line the main thoroughfare in the historic downtown area which is flanked by restaurants, shops, and a gallery. A multi-million dollar Riverwalk expansion running along the south shore of Lake Monroe is almost completed and provides a beautiful and peaceful place for walking or biking.

Traveling to the coast, we moved to Tomoka State Park. Providing extensive opportunities for hiking and biking, there are also plentiful options for boating and fishing. After setting up camp, we traveled to the park’s concession to purchase necessities for fishing in the area's brackish waters and paid a visit to the nearby Chief Tomokie statue. Erected in 1957, the chief and the accompanying legend have no basis in history. Chief Tomokie never existed. Nocoroco, the Timucuan village site on these lands, was occupied as early as 5000 B.C. by the early ancestors to the Timucuans. Discovered in 1605 by Spanish explorers, the tribe was wiped out by the end of the 1700s by a combination of wars and exposure to European diseases. The 1800 acres became a state park in 1945.

Located at the junction of the Tomoka and Halifax rivers, there are numerous kayaking options available but we selected a backwater area that protected us from the 15 mph winds and choppy waters of the open waters. Fishing once again was unsuccessful. Brown pelicans and kingfishers soaring by us were far more successful with their fishing. Nearby Ormond Beach provided an afternoon outing and allowed me to reminisce of childhood days playing on the broad waterfront. Cars are still allowed to drive on the beach but there is now a $20 a day fee for the privilege.

The Green Swamp, the vast wetlands of central Florida, lies within the easternmost boundary of the 4500-acre Lake Louisa State Park. Lake Louisa is the largest of a chain of 13 lakes connected by the Palatakaha River. The hills of the park were formed eons ago when the sand dunes were actually along the coast of the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico. The hilly roadways and 23 miles of trails provided plentiful opportunities for biking and hiking. Hammond Lake, one of the park’s most accessible lakes, was the launching point for our kayaks. The fishing curse followed us again despite our most valiant efforts. Kayaking along the Crooked River Preserve, located at the northern boundary of the park, we were carried beneath the shady canopy of cypress, oak, and hickory trees. After losing two lures, I put my fishing rod away and enjoyed the slow current pushing us down to Lake Louisa.

Architect Milton B. Medary designed the Tower

We were drawn to Lake Kissimmee State Park to experience their Cow Camp. Unfortunately, the Camp, depicting 1876 era cattle ranching,
had been discontinued over a year ago due to Covid concerns. With water access more challenging at this park, we decided instead to visit the nearby Bok Towers in Lake Wales.

Edward Bok, the powerhouse and money behind the project had come to the USA with his family as a poor Dutch immigrant when he was six years old. His life was the classic rags to riches story. As a successful editor and Pulitzer Prize-winning author, he amassed a fortune and later became a noted philanthropist. One of his favorite sayings is posted at various intervals in the park. “Wherever your lives may be cast, make the world a bit better or more beautiful because you have lived in it.” The tower is obviously the main focal point in the park but the 50 acres of gardens surrounding the tower were designed by Fredrick Olmsted Jr. As the son of one of the world’s most renowned landscape architects, he became noted for his work on prominent landmarks. His job was to convert the sandy hill surrounding the tower into a lush garden sanctuary. Bok commissioned the country’s top architect, sculptor, tile maker, and ironworker to create the Tower with wildlife and religous themes throughout the design. The highlight of the visit was the Singing Tower carillon concerts. Short pieces are played on the hour and half-hour and a carillon concert is held daily at 1 and 3 PM. The carillon in this tower consists of 60 tuned bells cast from bronze. The carillon is played using a keyboard similar to a piano and is played using both lightly closed fist and feet. The keyboard is connected through a series of wires and levers to each clapper which strikes inside of the bell, causing it to ring out. Visitors are able to watch the carillonneur play via a video feed to a screen in the gardens. The current musician, Geert D'hollander, descended the tower to answer questions. He is only the fourth primary carillonneur at the Towers since its opening in 1929.

We are returning home for a bit and then we'll be taking off soon for the Keys.

Pileated woodpecker destroying state property at Lake Kissimmee

Dixie Lake at Lake Louisa State Park

Lake Louisa

Lake Hammond at Lake Louisa State Park

Mural in Sanford

Campground visitor at Lake Monroe

Tri-colored heron

Gardens at Bok Towers

Tiles designed by J. H. Dulles Allen

The great brass door is a masterpiece of Samuel Yellin

Lee O. Lawrie designed the marble sculptures on the tower

Gemini Springs

Tomoka River

Snowy Egret on DeBary Creek

Along Rock River Run

Along the Crooked River

Lake Okeechobee, Ding Darling, Peace River, and Hardee Lakes

Located northwest of Lake Okeechobee, the 36,000 acre Brighton Seminole Reservation was our first destination on a recent getaway. The current Seminole Tribe of Florida consists of about 2000 members and is broken up into six reservations; Brighton, Big Cypress, Hollywood, Fort Pierce, Immokalee, and Tampa. Creek Indians in the 1700s fled to Florida from Georgia and Alabama and absorbing some smaller Florida tribes became known as the Seminoles. Conflicts with white settlers and later with US Government troops in the 1800s forced most of the Indians to relocate to Oklahoma but some traveled further south and hid in swamp lands. By the late 1800s and early 1900s, the Seminoles began re-emerging and were selling items to whites living along the edge of the Everglades. It was 1957 before a Seminole Constitution established the Seminole Tribes of Florida.

An RV park located near the south end of the reservation
provided a location for our stay a few miles away from Lake Okeechobee and Harney Pond Canal Recreation Area. Having planned to kayak in the waters near the lake, our minds were quickly changed as we saw bass boats flying through the canal creating substantial wakes. Setting up chairs along the bank of the canal, we spent long, pleasant hours communing with nature and attempting to catch black crappie. While the crappie never cooperated, we did catch a catfish and two largemouth bass. Hawks, turkey vultures, great white herons were the primary birds spotted. No gators disturbed our serenity but a 4-foot water moccasin slithered along some nearby rocks, a little too close for comfort.

Due to Covid-19, the Seminole Ah-Tah-Thi-Ki Museum in Clewiston on the Big Cypress Reservation has been closed since March 2020 but they offer a virtual tour from their website. It’s not like visiting in person but I appreciated the availability of the online option.

On the recommendation of friends, we traveled next to the WP Franklin campground along the
Caloosahatchee River. Getting skunked again at the waters surrounding the site, we took our kayaks for a day trip to the Ding Darling Natl. Wildlife Refuge on Sanibel Island. Arriving at dead low tide created an initial challenge as we attempted to paddle and fish in water 6-12 inches deep. At times, we decided our route based on how high the water was on the numerous ibis. If the water was up to their belly, we could make it through. As Alan stood near an area of heavy growth detangling his fishing line, the distinctive grunt of a gator hidden in the bush had him in his kayak and paddling away in seconds. Once again, the fish were uncooperative. Near the exit of the Refuge, we stopped for the short walk along the Calusa Indian Shell Mound Trail. The Calusa tribe is traced back to 12,000 BC but disappeared in the 1700s due to diseases carried by the Spanish and French explorers and battles with other tribes. Many were capture and sold as slaves. The tribe was known as the “Shell Indians”. The shells were used as tools, utensils, jewelry, and as spears for hunting and fishing, and were discarded in huge heaps that are still visible.

Moving to Wauchula, we had planned to kayak and fish along the Peace River. The swift-
moving current provides an effortless trip downriver, with the paddle being used primarily as a rudder. Historically, businesses have offered a service to take paddlers back to their launching site. Failing to consider the Covid impact, I was unable to locate

a service that would work for us. So after our brief stay near the river, we located another campground near Bowling Green, the 1200-acre Hardee Lakes County Park. Offering 4 lakes along with hiking and biking trails, we were excited by the possibilities. Lake Firefly offered the best experience for us. With numerous birds hiding in the tall grasses, the cacophony of bird calls with their squeaks, twitters, and screeches on our first early morning outing sounded like a jungle. Florida Gallinule, American Coots, herons, and red-winged blackbirds provided our entertainment as we paddled along the edges of the lake. Once again we were fishing for black crappie, once again we caught nothing. We blamed the full moon and were somewhat reassured when the small flats boat on the lake reported the same lack of success. On our 3 outings, we saw a few more alligators than we were comfortable with, but they seemed to be just as nervous about us as we were of them. Determining a gators' size can be tricky, but the general rule of thumb is to measure from the tip of the nose to the eye ridge in inches and then convert that to feet. Not that we were pulling out a tape measure, but we estimated a few of the gators to be in the 8-10 foot range, so big enough! When one popped up a few feet away from my kayak, I back paddled quickly, but just as fast he ducked beneath the water and disappeared.

One cloudy, windy afternoon, we stayed off the water and traveled to Zolfo Springs’ Cracker Trail Museum. The museum is part of Pioneer Park that also includes an old post office, a wood-burning steam engine, and a cabin built in 1879. Though the majority of the 4000 plus items in the museum are related to the pioneer-era in Hardee County, we were surprised to find displays of prehistoric fossils that had been dug up in the area. Megalodon sharks, estimated to be between 50-60 feet long, swam in this once water-covered area over 2.5 million years ago. Their teeth are hidden along the banks of the Peace River. Fossils for mammoths and camels that once roamed the area can also be found by fossil hunters. A local Boy Scout troop’s paleontological efforts are part of the museum’s collection. It was time to head home again but we plan to do some more exploring around the state soon.