Santa Cruz, Galapagos Day 7

Diego

Returning to Santa Cruz, we were visiting the inhabited portion of the island, and traveling to the Charles Darwin Research Station.  Scientists work at the facility on research and conservation projects for the Galapagos ecosystems.  The Charles Darwin Foundation, located at the site, operates an active turtle and land iguana breeding program.  Lonesome George, the world's most famous Galapagos tortoise died in 2012, the lone survivor of his species.  Diego, the world's second most popular tortoise resides at the Station.  Still going strong at 135 years old, it is estimated that he has sired over 1700 young.  He happily dedicated himself to the survival of his species, the Espanola tortoise, but was put into retirement 4 years ago.

Departing the Station, we headed up into the highlands to Rancho Primicia.  At over 150 hectares, this private property borders National Park lands, and wild Galapagos tortoises find their way to the ranch to lounge in mud pools and hang out in the shade.  Dozens of the huge reptiles were spotted during our visit.  For those of our group so inclined, empty tortoise shells could be donned, we declined that opportunity.  Numerous lava tunnels exist on the island, and we had a chance to walk in one on this same property.  Lighting in the 1000 foot tunnel was installed by the owner.  The furthest depths require a flashlight, and hands and knees exploring.  They are formed when cooler outer parts of the lava flow harden into thick rock walls, providing insulation to keep a flow going inside.  Eventually, the flow subsides leaving long empty tunnels.  No volcanic activity has occurred on Santa Cruz in thousands of years, so no worries about anything happening during our visit.

Returning to town, we did some souvenir shopping and hanging out along the waterfront before returning to the Letty for our last evening in the Galapagos.  The following day, we visited the Environmental Interpretation Center in San Cristobal that provides info on the history, biology, and geology of the islands. We also saw dozens of sea lions before meeting our guides for the bus trip to the airport for a flight to Guayaquil and then on to Peru.

Santa Cruz waterfront

At the fish dock along the waterfront in Santa Cruz

Opening of the lava tunnel

Heron at Rancho

Doing their part to perpetuate the species

Santiago Island and Rabida Island Galapagos Day 6

Beginning our day with a panga ride, we were headed this time to Santiago Island.  Evidence of past attempts to settle here are present soon after our landing along the beach.  A couple of ramshackle buildings and old fencing are all that remain, but the long term ramification of the business interests and settlers on the island are just starting to get under control due to intensive efforts by the Park Service.  Goats, pigs, and donkeys were brought to the island back in the 1800's, and introduced plants and black rats continue to cause problems for the ecosystem.  Land iguanas which once flourished are extinct on the island.  Numerous sea lions lounged on the lava rock near the shore.

Following our walk, we snorkeled just along the beachfront and appreciated the much

warmer, shallow waters.  Swimming in this area brought no new species to our list but it was a bit like moving around in an aquarium because of the density of sea life.

As we enjoyed lunch and rested, the Letty moved to Rabida Island.  After this break, we did some deep-water snorkeling at our new destination.  Dozens of starfish, a few white-tip sharks, an eagle ray, and multiple other species joined our swim including a few seahorses which hid in rocks along the bottom.  We saw our first and only fur seals on the cliffs here, along with Blue-footed and Nazca Boobies.  After the snorkel and a hot shower, we headed to the rust-colored beaches of the island for a walk.  Multiple sea lions laid out in the shade of the nearby cliffs, along with marine iguanas.  A short trail leading inland allowed us to see a few endemic bird species but they didn't pose long enough for photos.

Now, we'll be moving back to Santa Cruz Island.

Yellow warbler on Rabida Island

Spotted eagle ray

Blue-footed boobies on the cliff

It must have been a rough night

White-tip shark

Last remnants of attempts at civilization on Santiago

Love on the rocks

Dinner time

And dinner time

Snorkeling along the cliffs

Isabel Island , Galapagos Day 5

Entering Elizabeth Bay in a panga, we were welcomed by Blue-footed boobies, Galapagos sea lions and turtles.  As we went deeper into the cove, within the red and black mangrove-lined shore, we spotted a dozen or so immature spotted eagle rays, and golden rays. They were all skimming close to the surface, and the crystal clear water allowed us to see them easily.  Sea turtles and sea lions occasionally popped their heads up, as well.  It was a wonderful outing, followed by deep-water snorkeling in the Bay.

Water temperature was shockingly cold, once again, and we were thankful for the full wet suits.  But as with all of our snorkel experiences, we were immediately drawn away from thoughts about the chilly water, by the phenomenal sea life.  By this point in the trip, we had seen more turtles

than I could count, but here we saw more, and it never gets old.  These large lumbering creatures are so graceful in the water, it is a joy to follow them around.

As we got a hot shower and lunch, the Letty moved to Tagus Cove, still off Isabel.  Choices for the outing were kayaking or snorkeling, we opted for the snorkeling.  Once again, we had beautiful clear water for spotting yet more turtles.  A few sea lions darted past us. Numerous varieties of fish and dozens of starfish laid on the bottom.  On returning to the boat, we had a quick turn around.  We had a choice of a hike up to a lake in the cliffs over the cove or another panga ride, we decided on the panga ride.  Penguins, marine iguanas, and a variety of shorebirds were on hand for our visit.  Next on to Santiago Island.

Golden rays

Fernandina and Isabel Islands, Galapagos Day 4

Located at the westernmost edge of the archipelago, Fernandina is the youngest of the islands, at only one million years old.  Volcanically speaking, it is also the most active, though it has been 7 years since the last eruption.  Landing on the shoreline at Espinoza Point, we headed out across the lava-covered landscape.  Vegetation on the island is sparse, with some mangroves near the water and lava cactus growing out of the black rock.  Countless marine iguanas populate the island, and we also saw our first Flightless Cormorants and two different types of snakes.

Following the hike, we did some deep-water snorkeling off the island.  Jumping into the chilly water literally took our breath away, even though we were wearing full, 3mm wet-suits.  Spotting a Galapagos green turtle, took our mind off the water temperature.  We were enthralled by

 numerous turtles, thousands of fish, and near the end of the swim, our first Galapagos penguin.

As we enjoyed lunch, the Letty moved to Urbina Bay off Isabel Island.  Taking the dinghy to the shore, we hiked around a loop trail, where we saw numerous land iguanas and large Galapagos turtles.  Rough waters on the bay caused the cancellation of our afternoon snorkel and created an adventure in returning to the boat.  Large sets of waves coming in every few minutes meant timing the exit carefully to ensure a safe return.  We stayed off Isabel Island overnight, so we could explore other areas the following day.

   

Santa Cruz Galapagos Day 3

As the boat refueled on Santa Cruz, we slept in a bit.  This island is the most populace in the Galapagos, at around 24,000, but we were not visiting the developed area today.  Upon completion of the fueling, we ate breakfast as the Letty moved to the opposite side of the island to Bachas Beach.  Departing the ship by panga, we arrived at a white, sandy beach and followed a marked trail that overlooked a lagoon with a few flamingos.  Lava rock, marine iguanas, and remnants of a floating dock used by the Americans during WWII were also seen on the walk as we returned to the beach area for snorkeling.  Marine iguanas, Galapagos green sea turtles, sharks, and rays joined us on our swim.

Returning to the boat, we lunched and had a short siesta as the boat moved to another portion of

the island, off Dragon Hill.  Here we did a "deep-water" snorkel with more turtles, dozens of black starfish with orange dots and a variety of fish.  The swim was followed by a hike where we spotted sizable land iguanas.  Previously decimated by feral dogs, and their food supply destroyed by other domestic animals introduced by the people coming to live on the island, the iguanas were reintroduced and are now thriving due to the extraordinary efforts of the Park Service.  Now moving on to Fernandina.

Marine iguana going for a swim

Black starfish with orange dots

A strangely evil smile on this marine iguana