Porto, Portugal

View from Santa Catarina 

Overview

Arriving in Porto, we returned our rental vehicle and took a taxi to the Crowne Plaza where we had secured a suite for 2 nights using points.  The skies of the city were not only overcast but the air was heavy with smoke from the fires further inland.  It seemed we would probably be spending most of our day indoors instead of out exploring.  Within an hour of checking into our hotel, though, the sun appeared and strong winds off the ocean cleared the skies.  Since we had a tour of the historic center scheduled for the following morning, we left our hotel to check out this non-historical vicinity.  Heading toward the Douro River, we scouted out restaurants for dinner and wandered through the free Botanical Gardens which we happened upon along our route.  Since we didn't have a specific destination in mind, we walked until we finally reached the Chapel of Santa Catarina.  This spot provided a wonderful overview of the Douro and part of the city as well.  On our return, a small plate of pastéis de nata and a bottle of tawny port had been delivered to our room, gratis.  Loved that!

Porto City Hall

Clérigos Tower

The following morning, we hopped on a city bus and headed to the Clérigos Church
with its 250-foot tower.  Upon arrival for the 3-hour tour, it appeared that only a handful of tourists had signed up.  Perfect, we thought.  However, within a few minutes of the 10 AM start, more than a couple dozen people had shown up.  We knew this was not going to work well for us, so decided to take advantage of the nearby Yellow Bus off/on tour instead.  Offering 2 routes, the ticket we purchased covered both.  Starting with the historical Porto/orange bus departing from Liberdade Square, we spent the next 2 hours winding through the narrow, busy streets of Porto.  Using earphones providing an English narrative turned out to be a great way to experience Porto.  Alan was ecstatic that someone else was driving through the chaos of the city.

Stopping for a lunch break near the Square, Alan wanted to try the sandwich Porto is famous for, the francesinha.  It is made with thickly sliced bread filled with a combination of ham, smoked sausage, and fresh Portuguese sausage.  It is then covered with melted cheese and a spicy tomato/beer sauce.  It is frequently topped with a fried egg and served with french fries, but he decided to forgo that part of the tradition.

Returning to the pickup spot, we boarded the Porto Castles/purple bus for another 2-hour run.  This time we headed out toward the beaches.  Having walked extensively during our Portuguese visit, it felt a bit like cheating to use a tour bus.  But since this is a large and very hilly city, similar to Lisbon, it worked out well.  Using the bus allowed us to visit areas we otherwise would have been unable to see in our short time frame.

We have been traveling for several weeks now and are returning home for a bit.  Flying back home using air miles entailed, as usual, a rather convoluted flight plan.  But the price is right!  The itinerary gave us an overnight stop in Madrid.  Before departing the USA, we had learned that the Prado Museum is open free to the public every night from 6-8 PM on Mondays thru Saturdays and 5-7 on Sundays.  The museum was a 20-minute walk from our hotel and the timing worked out perfectly.  The entry line was quite long but moved surprisingly fast.  Once inside, we prioritized the artists we wanted to see.  Moving along quickly, we were able to view all the exhibits we had selected.  Meandering the wide pedestrian walkways back to our hotel, we stopped for a couple of sangrias and yet another seafood dinner.  Flying the next day to Dallas and then to Orlando, we arrived home around 2 AM.  This trip has been fantastic, but a bit exhausting too!

Francesinha sandwich

Forte de Sao Francisco Xavier
along the oceanfront

Carmo Church with gorgeous azulejo tiles

Carmo church detail

Porto Overview

World-renowned Casa da Música, open since 2005.

Called Anemone, this 138-feet diameter sculpture is located across from the beach.  It is a tribute to
Matosinhos, the land of the fishermen.

Church of Santo Ildefonso built in 1739, tiling
added in 1932.

Hospital of Santo Antonio dates back to 1770

Monument along the beachfront to 152 fishermen who lost their lives in stormy seas in 1947

Prado Museum (undergoing extensive renovation)

 

On the way to the Prado

Relaxing with a sangria

Madrid train station interior

Peso da Régua, Douro Valley, Portugal

Peso da Régua waterfront

Prior to traveling to the area, we were a bit overwhelmed with where to go in this region.  The valley extends for several hundred miles, and we were running out of time.  The answer came from our waiter/wine steward the night before our departure for the area.  With extensive knowledge of the area, he provided us with many suggestions but said Peso da Régua would fit perfectly into our agenda.  Locating a hostel across from the waterfront in the town, we were all set.    

On approaching the Douro Valley, we passed several active fires in the nearby mountains.  Luckily, most of them seemed to be well contained and on our arrival in Peso da Régua, the air was clear.  Finding the hostel was a challenge.  When our GPS said our street in Peso didn't exist, we were not surprised.  Our replacement rental vehicle had an old Garmin unit which had clearly not been updated since its production.  It led us up narrow village streets (with dwellings only inches from the car mirrors).  It had no knowledge of major highways, which had clearly been around for 10 years or more.  It took us up a private driveway and down a road which was somewhat akin to a cow path.  Contacting the hostel using our emergency phone, the patient receptionist kept in contact with us over several minutes and led us to our accommodations. 

Marrocos' estate

Since we were visiting this area to learn more about the wine created in the valley, we followed the suggestion of the woman who had helped us into town.  Arranging an appointment, we traveled out to the Quinta de Marrocos estate for a tour of their winery.  Located overlooking the Douro River, it is one of the oldest estates in the Valley.

Vinicultural activity has been taking place on the property for over 4 generations.  Producing primarily port wines, only 20% of their crop is used for creating white, red, or rose table wines.  

Joining another scheduled tour, we learned how the grapes become wine.  We were surprised to learn that grape stomping is a vital part of the process.  So a variation of the

I Love Lucy TV episode of The Italian Movie filmed in 1956 is still taking place, minus the grape fight.  (If you are too young to remember this, check it out on YouTube.)  Several stompers climb into the 10X10 concrete vat and stomp the grapes in a specific manner.  For unskilled labor, stomping is considered one of the better jobs, they are inside protected from the sun and earn 7 euros an hour, the grape pickers, climbing steep terraces and carrying heavy baskets of fruit, earn 40 euros a day.

Following the tour, we gathered in a room decorated with artifacts from the family's history on the property.  We were here for the serious business of tasting some of the ports they sell and got a brief education on the different varieties; white, tawny, ruby, and vintage.  Ports are sweet and are typically served as a dessert wine.  We wound up leaving with one bottle of dry white, for my new favorite cocktail, Porto Tónico.  During our visit, we learned that rooms were available to rent at the estate as well, so maybe next time......

Moving back to Peso, we were able to catch the final boat tour for the day along the Doura River.  Though the drive through the valley is considered one of the most beautiful in Europe, it was next to impossible for Alan to enjoy as he concentrated on maneuvering along the zigzagging roadway.  So, the tour was a welcomed opportunity for him to see the areas he had been driving through.  Across from Peso, high on a ridge, we saw the silhouette of the Sandeman logo.  Producing ports since 1790, the company's logo looks like a Zorro figure overlooking the valley, and it's visible from just about anywhere near the water.  

With our brief visit to Douro complete, it was time to move on to Porto the following morning.  

These kegs hold over 20,000 liters of the fortified port as it ages.

Douro dam

Aveiro, Portugal

Aveiro, located along the west coast, is sometimes referred to as the "Venice of Portugal".  While you would never get the two confused, there are a number of canals running through this city.  And, somewhat similar to Venice, the canals can be transversed by tourists in boats, not in gondolas but in barcos moliceiros.  The colorful boats were traditionally used to harvest seaweed which was used as fertilizer.  With the advent of chemical fertilizers, the industry was no longer viable, and the boats were warehoused,  When the tourist industry began developing in Portugal, the boats were pulled from storage, cleaned up, and colorfully painted with designs ranging from religious to risque. 

Even though we probably could have walked to most of the places along the canal boat trip,

we hopped on board for the 45-minute tour of the city.  The boat's guide divided the small boat into three groups based on language, so he could more easily provide an English, a French, and a Portuguese narrative.  Passing the lagoon of Ria de Aveiro, we saw small hills of salt which had been harvested using techniques dating back to the 12th century.  Many of the shops in town have the local product for sale.  The city is also known for its extravagant Art Nouveau architecture from the early 20th century, and we passed a few of the structures along our trip.

While many of the walkways in Portugal are covered with ceramic squares, in Aveiro they have turned it into more of an art form and add decorative elements, like shells or sailboats.  There are also a number of ceramic tile mosaics throughout the city that tell stories of the area's history.  

Similar to the egg custard tarts of Lisbon,

Aveiro is known for its Ovos Moles.  Made from egg yolks and sugar, and covered in a thin flour wrap, they have ocean-themed shapes, like shells or fish.  There are a few specialty stores selling the treats exclusively, but it seemed we didn't walk 20 feet without seeing a sign indicating the adjacent shop was selling the product.  But to know if you have an authentic Moles, you have to look for the PGI sign.  This indicates the delicacy is produced in the traditional manner.  They are included on the European Union's list of the Protected Geographical Indication.

Seafood was once again the highlight of most menus, and we indulged in some seriously good food during our short visit.  But next, we are turning away from the coast to move inland to the Duoro Valley.  

Hill of salt at the lagoon

Grilled baby squid

Art Nouveau Museum

Along the canal

Ceramic mosaic showing the harvesting
of seaweed.

Walkway design

Mercy Church interior

Ovos Moles de Aveiro

A store selling nothing but canned fish,
primarily sardines.  The Portuguese do
love their sardines!

Ovos Moles everywhere!

17th Century Mercy Church

Yummy!

Nazaré, Portugal

On the way to the coast, we stopped for a few hours in Alcobaça to visit the Roman Catholic
church and monastery located in the city.  The monastery was established in 1153 and the church was consecrated in 1252.  The monastery is divided with the church in the middle.  During our visit, one of the wings was closed for renovations, but the remaining open sections were expansive.  Beautiful vaulted ceilings top the nave of the church, which has minimal decoration.  In the transept of the church, we found the intricately carved tombs of King Pedro I and his wife, Inês de Castro.  This is a variation of a true-life version of a Romeo and Juliet story.  Pedro's father, King Afonso IV, ordered the death of Inês.  He did not like the influence Inês and her family had over his son.  Following her death, Pedro revealed that they had been secretly married, and ordered that she be crowned as queen.

On our arrival in Nazaré, we easily located our hotel just one block away from the ocean.  Since

Fishing is now secondary to tourism
for the economy in Nazaré

parking was included, or so I thought, I ran into the hotel to find out where we should go.  Street parking was obviously not the answer since every conceivable space within blocks was taken.  While English speaking hoteliers are the norm most places we travel, it was not the case here.  The couple running the hotel didn't speak any English or Spanish.  It all worked out, but we communicated primarily using hand signals.  And yes, initially, we did park about a mile away, but later in the evening, we were able to move closer.  Most amusing for us, however, was that every time we ran into the couple they would start rattling on in Portuguese, even though they knew we did not speak the language.  We'll never know what tidbits of local knowledge they were trying to share!

Referred to as the Silver Coast, Nazaré is known around the world for its mammoth surf.  Between October and March, occasional conditions create huge waves.  The highest recorded surfed wave along the beach was 80 feet (though some unsubstantiated are even higher).  During our visit, the waters were very calm, but as we found throughout Portugal the waters are quite chilly, an average of 67 degrees.  Walking along the waterfront in the evenings provided dramatic sunsets, an opportunity to scout out the best seafood restaurants, and listen to the street music along the boardwalk.  Alan ordered what he said was the best, grilled octopus ever.  In fact, it was so tender and tasty, he refused to order it the following evening, certain it would not live up to the high level attained by the first dinner.

Óbidos main entrance

During the day, we departed the city to explore other nearby places of interest. First, we traveled to
Óbidos.  This was a delightful town to wander along the cobbled stone streets.  Though it was quite crowded during our visit, it didn't take away from our enjoyment.  Blue and yellow trimmed, white-washed buildings, with bougainvilleas and other flowers, make it an attractive area.  Numerous souvenir shops line the pedestrian main street.  Many offer ginja de Óbidos, a liquor the area is known for.  The cherry brandy is available by the shot glass or in edible chocolate cups for one euro.  We tried both but were not intrigued.

Castle and wall

The highlight of the visit was the climb to the top of the city wall.   The narrow walkway is not protected by any railing, so it was a little nerve-racking walking on the ledge.  Originating with the Moors between the 8th and 11th centuries, they were later strengthened by Portuguese rulers.  The walls were also restored following the earthquake of 1755.

With countless beautiful beaches in Portugal, it doesn't take much effort to find a sunny spot to hangout.  Foz do Arelho is a wide sandy beach with the Atlantic Ocean on one side and the tranquil Óbidos lagoon on the other.  During our visit, the beaches were relatively deserted.  Restaurants, bars, and cafes line the roadway across from the oceanside.  Locals provide fishing charters for visitors within the lagoon.

Concluding our visit to Nazaré, we moved on to Aveiro.

Tomb of Queen Inës

Within the walls of the Monastery

Nave of the Alcobaça church

Massive stove within the kitchen at the monastery

Óbidos aqueduct

A side street in Óbidos

Overview from the top of the city walls

Climbing up to the top of the city walls in Óbidos

Lagoon at Foz do Arelho

Santa Maria Chuch in Óbidos on the main square, dates
from the 12th century