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Rome, Italy

Returning home from a recent family visit, we have resumed trying to find things to do to fill the days as we continue to self-quarantine due to Covid-19.  During our stay in Georgia, Alan and our son-in-law, Robert, started construction on a treehouse.  Though only the main infrastructure was completed, it functions well as a tree fort to the delight of our granddaughters, and they immediately moved in with a tent and lawn chairs.  Construction will be completed in the fall when cooler weather returns.

Since arriving home, Alan built an impressive puppet theater for our granddaughters and has completed a couple more paintings.  I’ve been continuing with my writing project.  Discovering the app, Geoguessr. has supplied a different mode of travel for me.  Granted, this geography game would not be everyone's “cup of tea”, but I’ve been enjoying the World Map version, and coupling it with Google searches, it is providing the discovery of regions we have not yet had the opportunity to explore.  

Now, I’m journeying back in time to Italy.

Spanish Steps
June 2000.   Flying into the Leonardo da Vinci airport, we arrived late in the day at the Elite Hotel.  Located on a cobblestone street near many of the city’s principal points of interest, we wandered our first evening to the popular, traditional meeting place, the Spanish Steps.  A recommendation from friends, who had visited the city a number of times, provided our first dining experience a few blocks away.  

The following day, we headed out first thing to the Trevi Fountain.  Though the fountain is one of the oldest water sources in Rome (dating back to 19 BC), construction on the fountain was not started until 1732.  By arriving early, we beat the crowds that normally surround the area.  We followed the guidelines for the legend that is supposed to ensure a return trip to the city.  Turning our backs to the fountain, we each threw a coin from our right hand over the left shoulder into the water.  (So far, the legend has not worked for us).  The coins are retrieved daily and used for local charities. 

Known for its huge dome, the Pantheon was completed around 126 AD and was converted into a Christian church in 609.  Massive granite columns greeted us at the entrance.  The central oculus of the dome (over 25 feet in diameter) provides natural light, and surprisingly, we were told, rarely allows rain to enter the sanctuary.  But, a drainage system built into the marble floors takes care of the problem during storms, if needed.  Our guide said the oculus was included in the design “to allow the prayers of the devoted to reach heaven faster”.  

Piazza Navona was our next stop, and it is considered to be one of the most beautiful squares in the city.  Built in the 1st century AD, it was known as a competitive arena for public games.  A large Egyptian obelisk was installed in the 17th century.  Surrounded by fine Renaissance and Baroque buildings, artists, vendors, shops, and restaurants fill the square graced by three gorgeous fountains.

On route to the Roman Forum, we stopped at the Capitoline Hill.  It is the symbolic center of historical Rome and features the nearby, imposing Victor Emmanuel II National Monument.  Victor became the first king of a united Italy in 1861.  

At the entrance to the Forum, we hired one of the numerous
Arch of Titus in the Forum
guides available.  Even though the amount of information shared was a bit overwhelming, he brought to life many stories from ancient Rome and made our visit infinitely more interesting.  The still-active archeological site is comprised of temples, basilicas, statues, arches, and memorial columns, most that run along the main street, Via Sacra.  Public events first took place here around 500 BC, and over the centuries the site was expanded to accommodate functions from elections to public speaking formats.  

The Coliseum was a 10-minute walk away along the Via Sacra.  Completed in 80 AD, it is still the largest amphitheater in the world.  Seating over 50,000 people for the brutal events held, the site is known for the slaughter of tens of thousands of gladiators and wild animals through the years.  At times, the building was even flooded and used to perform mock naval battles.

A dress code is in place for all churches in Italy, which means no shorts or sleeveless shirts, and the code is strictly enforced within portions of the Vatican.  One of the most iconic pictures of Vatican City is Bernini’s Colonnade at St. Peter’s Square, and this is where we began our morning tour.  It serves as an impressive entrance to the fabulous Basilica.  As expected, the expansive cathedral is richly embellished but the
highlights were Michelangelo’s Pieta and the extraordinary dome.  Next, we moved on to the Vatican Museum.  Featuring works by Raphael, Leonardo da Vinci, and Michelangelo, the museum houses an amazing and vast collection of masterpieces.  Finally, we entered the Sistine Chapel to see the stunning ceiling and altar frescoes completed by Michelangelo.  It is also decorated from floor to ceiling with art by the most famous artists from the Renaissance era.  The crowd of tourists made it difficult to see and appreciate all the room had to offer, but it was still an incredible visit.

During our days in Rome, Alan made multiple stops for a cappuccino at coffee bars. Locals consume the small cups in a couple of gulps while standing at the counter and he followed that example.  Strangely, if the same cup of coffee is consumed at a table, the price will be 2-3 times more.  Our extensive walking had us stopping for frequent snacks.  Numerous gelaterias in the historic district provided the opportunity for us to check out a variety of establishments.  We rated The Old Bridge Gelateria, near Vatican City, as the best in Rome based on our fairly widespread sampling.  Typically for meals, we ventured away from the main attractions and piazzas.  We lost the crowds, the higher menu prices, and the staffs’ knowledge of English.  We had some amusing conversations with Alan’s combined Spanish/Italian.  Locals appreciated his effort, even though most of what he said did not really translate, we pointed to order and ate some remarkable meals.  

Our visit culminated with a day trip to Tivoli.  Taking the 45-minute bus ride from the city, we were only a few minutes from the Villa d’Este on our arrival.  This 16th-century estate was built for Cardinal Ippolito d’Este, the son of Lucrezia Borgia, who was the illegitimate daughter of Pope Alexander VI and his mistress.  It is most famous for its terraced gardens and magnificent fountains and we spent a couple hours exploring the splendid grounds.

After a lunch break in Tivoli, we hopped on a bus to Emperor Hadrian’s Villa.  Built during his reign in the 2nd century AD, the sumptuous country residence included underground service passages that were big enough for vehicles.  At over 250 acres, the property has numerous fountains, in addition to libraries, thermal baths, temples, and gardens.  Hadrian had reproductions made of many of the things he had seen in his travels through the Roman Empire.  This massive archaeological complex and the neighboring Villa d’Este are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

We had packed a lot into our getaway, but it was time to return home.

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