The traveling manatees by Nancy French: Playa del Carmen vicinity, MX

Early last fall, we were literally packed and ready to drive to the Orlando airport when an updated weather report showed that Hurricane Irma might be headed our way. Even though we felt our property would probably be okay, we canceled our flights and reservations in Mexico. Shutters had been put up a few days earlier, just in case something happened while we were away. So except for some last-minute organizing, we were prepared. Bottom line, though the Caribbean, Florida Keys, and western Florida suffered widespread devastation, our property sustained damage which required prompt attention, so it was good that we decided to stay home. A beautiful old oak tree fell on our house, landing on our screened porch. If it had fallen another 5 feet to the south, it would have been in our living room. The tree falling ripped out our water lines (which Alan was able to repair) and we were without power for two weeks.

As summer approached, we decided to reschedule our Mexican getaway. Having traveled to the Yucatán Peninsula region several times, we had a low key trip planned. Over a decade ago, we had purchased a Mexican timeshare with Vidanta. With multiple high-end resorts scattered at prime tourist destinations around the country, it seemed like a good fit for us and we have always enjoyed our visits.

One annoying aspect of arriving at airports near popular resort areas is the onslaught of purveyors for resort properties vying for visitor's dollars by offering free snorkeling trips, off-shore fishing, and even cash if you are willing to sit through a 90-minute sales presentation. Exiting the airport is somewhat like moving through a gauntlet. Obviously, they are hoping to convince you to part ways with your money and buy into whatever they are selling. But even if they don't succeed, the gifts they used to lure you to the sales pitch are yours to keep. A firm, polite "No, gracias," does work, and we made it out of the airport unscathed. While I kept an eye on the luggage outside Hertz, Alan retrieved our rental car. He was approached by someone offering something "different". The bottom line, is we spend the following morning at a sales presentation for an all-inclusive resort, but we had an outrageous Mexican buffet breakfast, and on our departure (with no sales transaction taking place) left with 3000 pesos, roughly $150 US. Obviously, this sales model must work or it would not be sustainable. It just seems like a strange way to do business.

Loading up with groceries at the MEGA mart in Playa del Carmen, we were fairly well set for the week. Traveling during the off-season meant some venues were not as busy, but overall we found business brisk and parking at a premium, especially in central Playa. Though the resort has multiple restaurants on-site, we prefer to prepare most of our meals, and cocktails, in the room. It is certainly far more economical, and that is our more typical travel mode. With the exception of the shopping and the sales talk, our first few days were spent vegetating on the beach or poolside.

By midweek, we headed south to Akumal and the nearby, Yal Ku Lagoon.

Snorkeling the lagoon has always been an easy-going experience. Arriving early, we missed the busloads of tourists arriving as we prepared to depart. After a lunch of tacos and tostadas, we walked to Akumal Beach. We had decided not to snorkel with the turtles, even though our experience there 3 years ago was good in terms of turtle sightings; the water had been overcrowded and chaos seemed to reign on the beach. We were pleasantly surprised to see the changes had been instituted since our last visit. Admission of 100 pesos (about $5 US) per person for all non-Mexican visitors was now being charged, with public restrooms and showers as part of the deal. Restrictions have also been placed on the number of guides certified to take groups into the water, with controls on the size and number of groups; the positive changes were immediately evident. A free swimming and snorkeling area is available, but snorkeling in the conservation area requires hiring a SEMARNAT certified guide (600 pesos -which includes the entry fee for the conservation area). The beach is still inundated with crowds though, so arriving early in the day would be better. Mask, snorkel, and life jackets are available for rental. Life jackets are not required, but some visitors may prefer using them and they help protect the reef. Long and medium-length fins are no longer allowed due to the damage they cause the reef.

With rain in the forecast throughout our visit, we decided to visit Puerto Morelos without our snorkel gear. Scant tourists in town caused vendors of the multiple gift shop to be insistent in their attempts to attract customers into their shops, though most are packed to the ceiling with the same inventory, t-shirts, hats, jewelry, magnets, miniature Mayan sculptures, and colorful ceramic pieces. Scouting the north end of the waterfront road we discovered a different restaurant and snorkel outfitter, Restaurante Chayito. Throughout town, the rate for snorkeling in the national park reef is generally $25, which includes the park entry fee. Of course, the boat captain and guide expect a tip as well. But on this visit, we skipped the water and indulged in possibly the best tostadas ever. Fresh shrimp tossed with cilantro and lime, topped with red onion, tomato, and avocado over the crispy corn shell were enjoyed with perfectly mixed margaritas, yum! Before leaving town, we snagged some grouper at the fish market across from the central plaza. Prepped with tons of garlic, butter, lime juice, and seafood seasoning it provided a delicious dinner for the next 2 evenings.

In spite of ominous clouds, the following morning we returned to Puerto Morelos. After waiting out a

few squalls, the skies cleared and we headed out into the water. In spite of the preceding storm, the water was clear and visibility was excellent. Jumping into the seagrass beds at the reef's edge, we followed our guide into "The Gardens". All snorkelers in the park are required to wear a life vest and be accompanied by a guide to help minimize damage to the reef. The reef appeared healthy, with a colorful variety of soft and hard corals, though few tropical fish. Moving further out, we sighted a few larger fish, including large schools of yellow-tail snapper, several large permit, and barracuda.

Entertainment of all types is offered at the resort, ranging from blues and jazz to Mexican fiesta night. Having missed out on their Cirque du Soleil show, Joya, on our previous visit, we had purchased tickets before leaving home. The story of an elderly alchemist and his young granddaughter embarking on a "quest to uncover the secrets of life" is played out in the typical Cirque format with beautiful costuming, elaborate staging, and dramatic acrobatics.