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Moving through Maine

July 2010  Arriving in Ogunquit, ME,  to weather in the low 70’s, overcast skies, and misty rain, it was a delightful transition from the scorching temperatures along most of the drive.  By traveling during the high season, it was a different experience than we are accustomed to.  Primary roads are congested, and various venues are crowded.  But not along the Marginal Walk, a three-mile path overlooking Preston Cove, as we walked in the rain.  Overlooking the cove, the Ogunquit Museum,  houses a collection of Maine artists, including one of Alan's professors at Penn.  Lobster rolls was our first meal, followed by fried and steamed clams for a snack, and steamed lobster for dinner.  Ogunquit Beach is reputed to be one of the prettiest beaches in the state, but during our visit, the fog reduced visibility to around 100 feet and high tide had hundreds of people squeezed into 30 feet of beach.


Moving the following day to Wells, ME, we left some of the crowd behind.  We were able to do some biking and located some scallops for the evening's dinner, which topped the Alaskan scallops we feasted on last summer.  Wells National Estuarine Research Reserve, a network of trails that covers grasslands, forest, wetlands, salt marshes, and beaches, was explored the next day.  Unfortunately, we forgot the mosquito repellent for our four-mile hike which resulted in our walk becoming more of a run.

Old Orchard Beach is the number one beach in Maine, according to the local paper.  Planning a walk
before 8 A.M., we thought we would beat the crowds.  We were mistaken, but we still completed a five-mile walk down the beach.
 With a light breeze blowing and temps in the mid-70s, it was delightful.  Deciding to visit the Portland Museum of Art, we saw a special exhibit of Winslow Homer, Alan's favorite watercolor painter.  The excellent exhibition was commemorating the centennial of Homer's death, displaying many major pieces of his works.  

Driving along the coast, we discovered Popham Beach.  First settled in 1607 by the English, it was abandoned in 1608.  Locating an RV park on the ocean, we found that the place is visited by families returning year after year.  While not offering white-sand beaches, there were a minimal number of people and, at low tide, the water receded to a level that allows beachgoers to walk out to a few of the small islands offshore.  We were invited to a campfire one evening with a family from New Hampshire, who have been coming to Popham for 35 years.  Two lighthouses and millions of stars topped off a perfect evening which had started with steamers and raspberries topped with whipped cream.  Yes, we are still obsessed with food, especially when we can indulge in these fresh, local delicacies.

Kayaking the following morning on the Winnegance Creek, we had the creek to ourselves, joined
only by cormorants, ducks, and osprey.  Alan fished most of the time,  as I paddled the length of the creek.  He was rewarded with two smallmouth bass, one perch, and many hits.  We found outstanding steamers and fried clams at Percy's at Popham Beach for sustenance following the workout.

 At Boothbay Harbor, we secured a waterfront campsite that provided a perfect kayaking venue.  Kayaks were even included free of charge.  Deciding to kayak first thing in the morning, in the evening we were planning our first fire and marshmallow roast.  Intense lighting and four to five inches of torrential rain canceled our plans and caused substantial flooding and road damage in the area.

While exploring Boothbay and the adjoining towns for a few days, we found our way to the Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens.  Even though the grounds had incurred heavy damage during the storm, many of the flowers had held up to the assault.  Beautiful, well laid-out gardens included a creative children's section with fairy houses, barns, and a washtub with a washboard, a water pump, and a clothesline.  (With the laundry facilities being a favorite of the children, who would have thought?)

Having moved on to Rockland, ME, wifi has been non-existent in our campsites.  It seems strange that Maine would offer less wifi than the wilds of Alaska.  We've been creeping up the coast, sometimes going only 30 or 40 miles with each move.  Rockland is home to the Farnsworth Art Museum, where a celebration of Maine art, with extensive exhibits by three generations of the Wyeth family; Newton Curtis (usually referred to as N.C.), Andrew, and Jamie were on display.  It was interesting to compare the styles and techniques of the family over the years.  We canvassed the surrounding towns over the next two days as rain and heavy fog shrouded the area.  On a trip to Port Clyde, we found the visibility reduced to about 50 feet and the temperatures never leaving the 60’s. 


Sunny, warmer weather prevailed for the air show scheduled at the Owl Head Transportation Museum.  Aerobatics reminiscent of the barnstorming days of the early 20th century were performed by several pilots completing their daredevil stunts.  My heart was in my throat with each downward spin.  Meticulously restored carriages, cars, bikes and planes from the past are also on display. A model of the first sulky invented by Dr. Darwin to speed his visits to patients is essentially the same as the sulky now used in harness racing which we enjoyed at Scarborough Downs where we caught a few races and left our donation at the track.

Moved almost 10 miles, the next day, to Camden. The following morning, we boarded Surprise, a 57-
foot schooner, built in 1918. We sailed on a 2-hour charter around Camden Harbor, cloudless skies and winds around 15 knots made for a perfect sail. Unfortunately, the charming town of Camden we had visited years ago has been transformed into a tourist town with traffic jams, crowded sidewalks, and lines at the restaurants.  Summer is perhaps not the time to visit.


Next, we moved to Stonington (pop. 1100), an active lobstering and fishing village.  Numerous galleries and an active opera house provide a diversity of entertainment for residents and visitors throughout the summer months. Alan was immediately intrigued by the area. Stonington Lobster Co-op provided an unequaled lobster experience.  Lobsters can be selected right at the dock.  Taking our lobsters immediately back to camp to steam for lunch, it would be hard to beat the freshness of this feast.  Finished off the day with 5 pounds of steamers we had ordered from a local clammer.  He had harvested the clams that morning and we steamed them that evening for dinner. I could get to like this area too! 

The following afternoon, we proceeded to Acadia National Park.  Going to the Visitor Center, we were able to get maps of the area and made our plans for the next
few days. The 45 miles of carriage roads, built starting in 1913 by John D. Rockefeller, provide an outstanding way to view the park by bike or on foot.  Starting the first day, we completed a 3-mile hike to Paradise Hill, followed by bike trips over the next two days totaling around 25 miles. (We have to work off all these lobsters, clams and berries somehow.)

We enjoyed a nice fire and cocktails with our friend, Heather, as temps dropped into the 50’s.
Heather runs the Kisma Preserve in Ellsworth, ME, which rehabs many local animals, as well as lions, tigers, and a variety of primates.  Check out her website: kismapreserve.org.

We also visited with two of Alan’s art instructors from the Vero Beach Museum, Joel Johnston and Phillip Steel.  Joel, visiting Maine for the first time, bubbled with enthusiasm.  Phillip, on the other hand, is a long-time resident of Southwest Harbor and owner of the Salty Dog Gallery.  Phillip and his wife, Joan, directed us to a mussel hunting ground, where we scored 5 pounds of mussels within 15 minutes.  The dinner menu resolved.
  
We have now moved to Eastport, the most easterly town in the U.S.  Our campsite overlooks the captivating view of Passamaquoddy Bay, accented by the numerous islands and four lighthouses offshore. Crossing into Canada tomorrow, we will continue to keep in touch as we are able.

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